This past March I got an e-mail from my friend Erin in San Diego asking if I wanted to do the 4 day trek to Machu Picchu - In August - with her and whatever other friends of hers' wanted to go. Immediately I sent a response saying count me in!
The next several months were spent arranging the tour that would take us, deposits made, itineraries shared, hotel reservations booked, bus tickets purchased, etc, etc. Erin is the one who pulled most of this together and for all of us who made it......we cannot thank her enough!
I first met Erin when she and her boyfriend Chad and their amazing dog Rhino showed up in Esterillos in Feb. 2008. I met them at Soda Mary's the morning after they arrived. They had driven a suburban all the way from San Diego and after 40 days - lots of surfing, etc, - had landed in my little village. They had no plans but were considering staying. Just that morning I had spoke with my good friend Brigitte. She and her husband own one of the most beautiful homes in all Esterillos. It is the one at the top of the hill, the one I had the pleasure of house sitting two summers prior for 5 months, the "Presidential Palace". Brigitte was looking for someone to house sit for a month starting in about a week. After I spoke with Chad and Erin, within 15 minutes I knew they would be perfect for the house. Hooked them up with Brigitte that afternoon and they were on. When the month was over, they rented another house here in Esterillos and stayed until August of that year. During their time here, Chad proposed and they were engaged. They were married last August in San Diego - on the beach near the historical Coronado Hotel. Rhino and I were part of the wedding party - seriously!
The start of this amazing trek began at 4:30 am when the tour van picked all of us up at the hotel in Cuzco. Most of us had been in Cuzco for about 4 days prior just to adjust to the altitude. There was me, 7 amazing beautiful young girls plus Erin's dad Mike. 4 years ago he had either hip or knee surgery - can't remember which - but was determined he would make it. We had two guides. The lead guide was Santiago. We had met him the night before at our "briefing". At that time we had no idea the significance he would play in our lives. Marcelino was the 2nd guide and as it turned out he was Mike's constant companion and made sure he would make it to the end.
At 4:30 am it was still dark. We drove for about 2 hours before we stopped for breakfast. Another hour we were finally at the check point where the trek would truly begin. When this tour was booked in April I had my old passport. In May I needed to renew and received a new number. The tour company had been given both but at this check point......they had neither. Santiago worked his magic and in moments I was with the group walking across the swinging bridge that signified the start of the big adventure.
For the first couple of hours the path was wide, fairly easy, a steady climb up. At one point I was actually thinking 3 full days of this would be simply wonderful. A stroll thru the Andean Mountains of Peru..... It was less than 15 minutes after this thought that reality hit. The first set of stairs.......not like steps to your upstairs bedroom......steps in some places that were as high as my knee.........serious steps!!! And that was how it went from there on out. We were either going up.....or going down - most of the time on rocks or steps that you had to look at every single step.
Besides our small group of 9, two guides, we also had 15 porters. These men carried all of our supplies, food, tents, sleeping bags, tables, chairs, their own gear, propane for cooking, etc, etc. - on their backs! At the end of the day we would arrive at "camp". Our tents all ready set up, bowls of warm water sitting out side our tents, towels hanging close by. The food..........OMG...........THE Food! Piles, and piles of delicious food! Mostly traditional, every dish a picture of perfect presentation. On the 2nd night we had baked trout - trout - I have no idea how they provided all of us with fresh fish. Another night we had a dessert of flaming banana something or another - lit it up right there in our tent! The best of all was our last morning. We had cake - not just any cake......but a cake so colorfully decorated - so amazing - so delicious- at 4 am to start our morning descent upon Machu Picchu. All of us girls were totally delighted!
I could go on and on about the 3 full days prior to Machu Picchu. Besides the thousands of steps up and down.....their were the numerous Inka ruins along the way - all of which Santiago would passionately tell us what little is actually known about each site.
For the most part of this trek I was alone. Of course I was with everyone in camp - morning, lunch and night - but the actually hike itself was done alone. The girls were on a mission - within minutes of leaving camp - they would be out of site. Mike was slow but steady - One of the girls named him Tortuga. I reminded them of the story of the tortoise and the hare. I wasn't fast - I wasn't slow - just a nice steady pace in the quite of the Andean Mountains following a trail that was laid thousands of years ago. I saw llamas in the valleys, a few water falls. There were breathtaking views of distant snow covered peaks, distant rivers and ranges, and cloud forests flush with orchids. By the end of the day I was exhausted but not alone. Every single one of us was in the same state. I never once thought I would not make it ........I always knew I would.
Our last night together we were camping in an area that overlooked a huge valley. The stars at night were the most brilliant I have ever seen. The moon was a small sliver and with no other lights, the sky was lit up by thousands.......millions of twinkling lights. The best part was the Milky Way......like a mystical vapor of light floating amongst all the stars above us. Before climbing into our tents, me and 3 of the girls spent time alone in the dark just looking at the sky. No words were said........nothing could have described that moment.
Another long story.....but at dinner on that last night we as a group, with our guide Santiago, made the decision to get up at 3:30.....A.M.!!!!!! - Breakfast at 4 - head out of camp by 4:30 so that we could be the first group at the check point which is required before entering the last area that leads right into Machu Picchu. Once you go thru the check point there is about an hour more before you reach the "Sun Gate". It is here you want to be as the sun is rising and as it lights up the valley below which is where Machu Picchu rests. Santiago had given us the choice of getting up very early or sleeping in for another hour - and arriving at the check point about the time it opened - knowing there would be others ahead of but would still make it to the Sun Gate as the sun came up. All of us made the decision we wanted to be first and would be up and ready to go right after breakfast at 4:30am and that is what we did. When the man came to check us in - promptly at 5:30 am - we had been there for an hour with all the other groups now behind us and waiting to get thru. As soon as we were thru.........we began to run!
Seriously running........It was still dark but we all had head lamps. Mike was with Marcelino and I knew he would eventually make it but I was with the girls and I wanted to be with them as the first group to arrive. Up the stairs.......down the stairs.........carefully watching each and every step as time was a factor and there was no room for a fall or mistake. I was going as fast as I could possible go and right behind the last girl. I could go up as fast as they but the down was harder and I was more cautious. Every once and a while it would flatten out for a short stretch and I would run to catch up. I managed to do this for quite awhile but then they got a head and out of sight. The sun was coming up and I could feel one of my shoe laces was undone. I didn't want to stop as I knew that would cost me time. 10 - 15 more minutes - I was getting hot. Finally I stopped. I pulled off my cap, yanked off my gloves, tied both shoes......looked over my shoulder.......saw no one behind me and started running again.
It was at this moment I realized this was my "Amazing Race". When I lived in the states the reality show "The Amazing Race" was my most favorite. Every episode I saw I wanted that to be me - in a race around the world - the winners taking home the prize of 1 million dollars. I was now in my very own "Amazing Race". Several times I stopped to glance - quickly - at the scene around me. The valley and mountains across from me - the sun rising and the golden glow - I was in Peru........then another quick - very quick glance over my shoulder - still no one......more running. Until......the damn stairs - again - not the small steps - the huge - Inka size steps - never ending....up, up, up. And then.......finally, I heard a familiar sound - the girls. The same sound I had heard every day as I reach camp - alone - the voices of my team mates. Santiago had named us the Spice Girls and I was a part of this team. No one had passed me yet - it had to be the Sun Gate. As I crested the top of the peak and ran thru the Gate - there they were and there......there was Machu Picchu below us. She was still in shadow as the sun had not yet risen high enough. On this amazing day, the Spice Girls were the first ones thru the Sun Gate and Machu Picchu waited for us below. No longer than 3 minutes passed before 2 young guys came thru after me........I was beyond thrilled to have won my own Amazing Race.
When Mike arrived, more photos were taken and then the descent began. The next several hours were spent in the company of Santiago as he continued our education as to the lifestyle and history of the Inkas. We were all given a few hours free time and told when and where we all needed to meet up for lunch in the small town about 15 minutes down the mountain - by bus - from the site. No photograph and certainly nothing I could ever say..........could ever describe the size, the magic, the mystery of Machu Picchu. It is simply a place that has to be experienced......and for each person, a totally different experience. As for me.......I will forever be grateful to have been a part of this group, this trek, this amazing place!
Me and 3 of the girls were the last to arrive at lunch. Erin's mother did not do the hike but was at the site when we arrived in the morning and was now with all of us for lunch. I was sitting near the end of the long table right next to Santiago. Several times he had walked with me on the hike and so by now I felt very close to him. I was trying to explain just how significant the run to the Sun Gate was to me and relating it to a reality show in the states. After telling him just how important all that was he told me that he has been doing this tour for 5 years - which I already knew from a previous group discussion. But what he then told me, that in all that time, it had been his dream to be the very first one thru the Sun Gate and Today.......that very day.........was his first time ever to be the first. I just looked at him and then repeated what he said......."Today........ was your first time ever......... to be the first one thru the Sun Gate?" Yes, was his answer.
I raised my hand and said "Girls.......Santiago just told me.........." and then I told them what he had said. As the lead guide it is his responsibility to make sure we all make it. On this day he had a group of girls who had proved to him they would make it and wanted to be first. As he neared the end he sprinted ahead and got to the gate a few minutes before the group. He told us how happy he was to have that time alone at the Sun Gate. We were all beyond thrilled for our Santiago.
After lunch he walked all of us to the train that would take us an hour or two to our bus and then back to Cuzco - the former capital of the Inka's. Saying good-bye was hard. Santiago had been our man, our leader, our inspiration, our teacher. We all simply loved him!
The next morning most of the group headed back to California. Shortly after they left the hotel, Erin's sister Chelsea, her friend Mary and I all caught a taxi to the bus station. The 3 of us would spent the next week exploring more of Peru. We were headed south to Lake Titicaca where we would spent the next couple days seeing more Inka sites on the route to Puno. From there we took a 5 hour boat ride to a remote island named Amantani. Along the way we saw the famous floating islands that are made of reefs by the inhabitants who live there. In the distance we could see the snow covered mountain peaks of Bolivia.
On Amantani we stayed in rustic cabins provided by our native hosts Ricardo and Francela. Francela cooked our meals over an open fire in her dirt floor kitchen. Puno and Lake Titicaca are known for folklore.That evening we sat and watched a dance performed by the locals in the town plaza. Afterwards we walked to the top of the island past 2 ruins - Pachamana (Mother Earth) and Pachatata (Father Earth). According to Andean belief Lake Titicaca gave birth to the sun as well as the mother and father of all Inkas - Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo.
The following morning we once again took a slow boat back to the main land - caught a 3 pm bus to Arequipa which is the 2nd largest city in Peru. By the time we got there it was dark and getting late.
Our plan was to book a tour that would take us to Canon Del Colca which set amount high volcanoes and is twice a deep as the Grand Canyon. In fact it is the world's 2nd deepest canyon. The deepest is also in Peru about 10 hours from where we were.
Mary had tried to book a tour on-line before arriving in Peru but could not find anything. Long story short - but...we got up very early - walked the empty streets waiting for an agency to open - after returning to our hotel managed to catch a tour heading out within 30 minutes of our call. A bit frustrating.....but we were on our way. Saw El Misti - the huge volcano that towers over Arequipa - long bus ride thru valleys were llamas grazed - many stops for the "tourists". By evening we were in Chivay. Chivay......not much to say about Chivay other than it was a very rustic, dusty transportation hub for the wave of tourists on their way to the canyon. However, it was here, me and the girls took a ride in "taxi" that was more like a covered, motorized 3 wheel bicycle with a bench for us 3 in the back. With a bottle of wine we laughed all the way to the hot springs which is where most of our bus group all ready was. Instead of the tubs, Mary and I opted for the zip line across and back the canyon. This was very fun and made the day! We ended the evening with some of the best pizza ever.
Up again at 4:30 am we were on our way.......in search of condors!
Before the canyon - more stops - quaint mountain villages, plazas full of residents in native costumes, more llamas. Riding along the rim, the canyon got deeper and deeper - more and more beautiful. Then we stopped to take a short hike. As the guide was giving us the details about the depth we saw the first condor flying up the canyon. It was below us but with the early morning sun it was in clear view. I will....never........forget.............that...........moment!
From there our group walked up to a much high point of view and there... all around us... were condors. My guess is about a dozen. Some above, some below in the canyon. Before I reached the highest point and was walking by myself, I heard a swoooosh above my head. There a short distance over head were 2 condors that flew up behind me and past me. The sound.......the swoosh...........that will also forever be with me.
Within a hour of the first sighting, the sun was well up and they were gone to other places - hunting, whatever condors do.........
Many hours later, that evening Mary, Chelsea and I sat on a balcony overlooking the magnificent Plaza de Armas of Arequipa. One of the most beautiful city night scenes I have ever seen. It was here we shared a simple meal, a glass of wine and said good-bye. I caught a cab to the bus terminal and headed back to Cuzco. They did the same but went to Lima.
My last day in Peru was spent alone in Cuzco. After 4 days prior to the big hike with Erin and all the other girls, we had shared and did a lot in this ancient city. I was comfortable, knew my way around and way just happy to be there. The following morning I would fly to Lima and then back to Costa Rica.
My first flight from Cuzco to Lima was on PeruvianAir. After 3 departure gate changes we were on our way. I thought I would have 2 hours between flights to get from one airline to another in plenty of time. After the delays..... I was late. By the time I got to Taca Airlines I had about an hour left. At first the ticket agent could not find my name even tho she was holding my reservation in her hand. Finally she had it but then told me the plane was full.........so.............she was moving me up to FIRST CLASS - Yahoooooooo!
At that is how it all ended. Me in First Class with my comfeeeey seat watching the beautiful world below me.
Thank you Erin - for your love, your friendship, for inviting me to join you and your amazing friends on this once in a life time adventure!!
Pura Vida
No comments:
Post a Comment