I cannot even remember when I last sent out one of my "updates" . Stories of some of the ongoing, daily amazing things that happen here in Costa Rica.
Tonight while sitting on the back balcony at my friend Eleanor's house - we enjoyed a glass of wine while watching one of the greatest shows on earth - an intense lightening, thunder storm over the hills and jungle behind her house. It was then I decided I needed to start a list.
So.....here are a few on my favorite things:
Fire flies - always seen on any given evening but especially delightful when one is in your cabina after the lights go off. It is truly amazing just how much light one single fire fly can put out.
This evening and most evenings - seeing a flock of scarlet macaws explode out of an Almendro tree as I am walking on the beach.
Surfing - I cannot fully explain the joy surfing has brought to my life. I am still very afraid of the ocean but love her at the same time. As I am walking towards the water quite often my heart is racing but once my feet are in.... I forget everything...... everything and am consumed with the joy of being. The joy of surfing is so hard to explain. As in all other "sports" - there are no rules to surfing. Each person in the water is there for the pure joy of whatever it is they personally receive and it is very personal. What I do know is there is a bond between the people who share this joy. It cannot be expressed in words....for each person has a totally different experience and drive for being there. I am at my happiest when I am in the company of others who share this obsession. It is a huge part of my life here in Esterillos. I can sit for hours just talking and listening to others share their love and experiences while surfing. Just this morning Cam told me about his morning yesterday. While in Este, he was on a great wave and riding with him where about 5 or 6 manta rays each one having about a foot and half wing span. Amazing!!
For several weeks in Feb, the waves were very small. One morning I walked down the hill straight for Soda Mary - where many of my surfer friends either live or stay. Sure enough, about 6 of the guys were just sitting there. The waves were so small, they were so disgusted - no one was going out. I decided I was going no matter what - even tho the thought of this terrifies me. So....sure enough, I grab my board and head for the beach - about 5 minutes away. They were right - no waves. I'm thinking - good, no danger of getting caught in something way to big for me, not the season for crocodiles.....what can go wrong??
One of the things I really love about early morning paddle is when the waves are flat - is how the board cuts thru the water and while doing so, the sun shinning on the wax beads up so that is literally looks like sparkling diamonds. Right away I was thankful for coming out. As soon as I got just about where I wanted to be I could see a large flock of pelicans coming my way. Quite often they swoop down, kinda close and as they go by - they give you the eye.....Sure enough here they came, but instead of going on just one side of me - they split and now I had pelicans within 20 feet on each side - giving me that eye. I was delighted and now really glad I had come out.
Since I have been in Costa Rica - I have been fishing a lot. Often with my tico friend Minor in his small ponga boat, several times in fancy sport fishing boats out of fancy, over-priced Los Suenos. Many times I have seen fish swarming on the surface. That is always a good sign when fishing. Until this day I had never once seen anything other than an occasional fish jump close by while surfing.
So there I was sitting, still thinking about the pelicans, a bit nervous because I really do not like being out alone. All of a sudden a fish jumped - it was between me and the shore. Then another, then a bunch. All of a sudden there was a cluster F-^@$%^ of fish!!!!!!!!!!! I was TERRIFIED!!!!!! I could only imagine the large creature trying to feed on this swarm of fish. I immediately dropped onto my board and started paddling parallel with the shore - as fast as I could possible go. When I finally stopped and sat up I was almost in tears - considered going in. I sat there literally catching my breath......all was calm and quite. Within a few more minutes the jumping started again but this time a little ways down from me. I was concerned...but not terrified and again started paddling back to where I had come from.
Once I got back to my regular spot, I saw 2 friends walking on the beach. Now I didn't feel so alone. Then another amazing thing happened. A set came rolling thru that actually had waves large enough to ride and so I did. I caught a wave all the way to shore, declared it a wonderful day and got out.
Other memorable days: The first time I did a left - I still do not do lefts very well but this first was extremely exciting as I turned while I was on a wave that was reforming and before I knew it...... I was flying all the way to the beach. All that day and even the next, I asked my friends repeatedly "did I tell you about the left I caught" They all just smiled. It was so, so, so exciting.
The morning I almost had a barrel: I did not see it - I had no idea it was happening other than I knew there was water around my head. Another friend described it to me - my almost barrel.
The morning Pepper and I did a double, synchronized, over the falls because neither of us were paying any attention to Mother Ocean and she snuck up behind us and sent us flying.
The day the water was so clear I could see the reef below me while riding a long wave into shore.
The day I paddled out to the "secret" spot with several of the guys. I caught a wave, saw the rocks coming up - quickly - bailed - got caught in a set - was thankful I got to the outside and survived it all - decided this was not a place for me. Almost immediately, Cam paddles over and tells me his leash broke. I tell him to trade me boards as I am not surfing again and would be happy to just sit on his long board. We trade, he heads for the waves. Within 5 minutes I am getting paranoid of sitting on the outside by myself. This area is a spooky mysterious place........so........I head in on a board that is almost 2 feet longer than what I am used to. As I am walking out of the water the 2 guys on the shore point out the small crocodile (about 6 feet) off to the side near the reef. He's at least 100 feet away, but still.............At that moment I decided the "secret" spot was not the place for me, that was until 2 months later.
Two months later the Texas boys were here and I had told them I would paddle out one morning with my waterproof camera and take photos. The morning came, I walked down to the beach - no one out. I realized they must have gone to the "secret" spot since a good swell was rolling thru. The day was perfect, I had the camera......I took a deep breath and started the 15 minute walk down the beach to find them. Sure enough the waves were BIG. Another deep breath and I headed out. The paddle out is long, but I put my head down and went for it - trying not to think about the last time I was there with the crocodile........Obviously I survived, I did make it out, the waves were the largest I had ever seen while actually being in the water myself. Sitting off to the side - safely taking photos was breathtaking. Maybe 20 minutes went by, one of the guys paddled over to me after catching one of the huge waves. As we were talking here came a rouge set and my safe zone was no more. Seriously, this was the largest wave I had ever seen up close and personal. I was hoping to go over the top but it broke just before it reached me. I attempted my turtle roll and got the most dramatic spin I have ever had. It seemed like forever before I came up. Then another wave......... then - another. The amazing thing was I was not afraid, I did not hit bottom, I did not think I would die! -Instead, I survived, later was grateful for the experience.......but never want to do that again. I'll attach a photo from that day.
I really didn't get too far on my list but obviously surfing has become a very, very important part of my life.
I will work on the rest of the list later - Gotta go surfing early in the morning......
Did I tell you about the left I caught?????
Pura Vida
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