December and January - non stop action, quick overview to get everyone up to date:
End of November - Mike, 23, my very good friend from the first 3 months I was here - arrived for 3 weeks from Canada, his 23 year old former roommate Jules and Jules' girlfriend 19 year old Alysha arrived a day later. For a week and a half I hung with this group. Lots of surfing, parties in the evenings, road trip to Aernal Volcano over to the Pacific coast to Ocotal, beautiful beach - could see Nicaragua across the bay - wild 4 wheeling ride down the the "Monkey Trail" well named for the amazing howler monkeys. Into Tamarindo, very popular and over developed beach community, down the Nicoya Peninsula and back home. 2 days of good friends and great music. 2 days back in Esterillos, the four of us still traveling around to local sites, are at a local beach. While sitting 20 feet in front of our rental car, the car is broken into and Mike's bag stolen. Fortunately, there was a task force also at that beach that saw everything and as we sat watching the sun go down, the robbers were stopped while driving away with the goods. As we were getting up to leave an officer told us what happened in the less than 15 minutes we were sitting there. For the next 2 hours we stood by the side of the beach road, fighting off mosquitoes, etc while the arrest and investigation began. Then... all 4 of us had to go the police station in Jaco for more reports, etc. This all took another 2 hours. For me this was totally fascinating. I could go on and on about time spent in the local police station but just know it was quite the eye opener and very entertaining. After that another day trip with more days of surfing, local outings. Then....Alysha changed partners and hooked up with Mike. Because December is major high season here, and there are not very many places to stay in Esterillos, Jules ended up staying with me in my very small room in the beach house. For the first couple days I got thumbs up and lots of smiles when we told everyone Jules was staying with me even tho everyone did know the story. Needless to say this was a very unusual time.....Meanwhile, other people that I also knew from earlier in the year also returned to Esterillos. Rick and Rob, the Miami boys - two of my new favorites. More surfing, more parties, more long, long nights laughing myself silly.
My wonderful friend Eleanor has a beautiful home and 2 cabinas she rents out. This year the house went to 2 gay couples from Canada, one cabina to another gay couple and her very close gay friend Peter from London - whom I met last year - were all at her place for Christmas. Several days before Christmas I made the arrangements to take Peter and the two couples from Canada horseback riding in the mountains and on the beach. In the jungle, down by a creek, it started pouring rain. The air is hot and the rain warm - no problem. We all just laughed and loved the moment. The next day all of us plus Eleanor and another friend all went to one of my favorite places. A series of 3 waterfalls that create 3 pools big enough for swimming. Private property, must walk thru the jungle to get there. Paradise. Several of these men love to cook. Christmas day was spent eating, enjoying each other's company, lots of laugher. 2 days later, the night before the 2 couples left, I was invited to join them and Peter for dinner. I had made them a DVD of their holiday and they were taking me out. When we got to the local restaurant the electricity went out and candles were lit. As I was sitting eating my fresh fish dinner in the company of these men I had come to love in such a very short time, at that moment I could not have been happier.
New Year's Eve was spent at the Presidential Palace on the hill - my former home all last summer. Again - great food, great friends, dancing..... At midnight the stoke of midnight many of us stood on the balcony and watched fireworks on the beach. I stayed until the show was over and then headed down the hill to my place on the beach. I was aware there would be bonfires and wanted to be part of that also. Here were the Tico families I have come to love. Big contrast between the party on the hill and the festivities on the beach. I am so grateful for these amazing people whom I have come to love so much.
New Year's day I was moving again - this time from the beach house to my friends' Kate and Dave. They were in California for the holidays - due back on Jan. 8th. I was set to move into my new place on the 15th but needed a place until then. This stay at their house helped both me and them.
About a week before I was to move I got an e-mail from my friend Kevin in California. He and another friend were coming to Costa Rica to hike Mount Chirripo, which is the highest mountain in Costa Rica - the 2nd highest in the Central Americas. It is 12, 300 something feet high. Kevin's friend messed up his knee and Kevin was now asking me if I wanted to join him, his friend Felix from San Jose, CR and Felix' 20 year old son Feleche. Well.... what do you think. I now had 4 days notice to get ready for the hike. I dug out my brand new running shoes that I have never worn and made travel plans. On Monday the 14th I caught the bus here in the village and road it all the way to the airport in San Jose. There I was met by Kevin. Within hours, me, Kevin, Felix and Feleche were being driving by another friend the 3 hour drive to the base of the mountain. There we all stayed in a hotel before starting the hike the next morning at 5:30am. Because this is a "nutshell" this is the short version of how it went. First day: 14 Km - UP 11 hours to base camp with about a 30 minute lunch stop. Exhausting. Dinner was tuna fish sandwiches and dried figs. That night I slept in a room with 2 sets of bunk beds with my 3 hiking partners. Kevin and Felix snore so loud it was like trying to sleep at a train station - seriously. Up early the next morning to conquer the mountain. We planned to stay another night so there was no hurry except the excitement of reaching the top. Only 4 km - but took about 3 hours. The final ascent was breathtaking. This was not a race but I happened to be in the front. Kevin was taking his time, Felix and his son decided to just sit at the base and enjoy the scenery with a joint. I just wanted to be on top. From here I cannot begin to tell you the thrill of climbing up, up, up over rocks and boulders. One moment it would be perfectly clear and then a cloud would pass. I would stop and sit on a rock and while looking down could see the cloud as it moved up from the valley and over the rocks. It was all so alive I could touch it. As I came around a corner, I looked up and saw a very handsome young Tico man. I stopped and asked if that was the top. He said "yes". I said "really". He gave me this huge smile and said "yes". I then said "you look so good, can I take your photo?" He smiled and I did. As I came over the top, he was there along with his 5 other friends from the CR university. As I stood up they all clapped and cheering me. On top of the world with these 6 handsome men - could have been a dream - but it was not. About 10 minutes later came Kevin and another 30, Felix and Feleche. Lots of photos, signing of the book at the top. After the boys left, the four of us stayed for about an hour. On a very clear day, one can see both the Atlantic and the Pacific. This day was not that clear - clouds over the oceans but..... beyond spectacular where we stood. A moment I will never, never, never forget. Thank you sooooooo much Kevin!!
The next morning we planned to leave very early. Felix is nocturnal and was up and down all night. About 4:30 am as he was coming back in I asked what time it was - he told me and I moaned. But then he told me he was out looking at the Southern Cross and that the sky was lit up with stars. If I wanted to see, I had to get up out of me very warm bag into the very, very cold. Well..... what do you think? Felix and I then spent about 15 minutes star gazing. The Southern Cross - simple and so beautiful. I had last seen it in South Africa. Another magical moment.
The hike down took about 6 hours. It had rained at night and with about 7 km to go the trail got very muddy. Lots of slipping and sliding but we took our time and all made it down safely. The only thing that did not make it down was my bag with the sleeping bag, etc. All our supplies and equipment had been taken to base camp by horse - same thing with coming down only my stuff got left at base camp despite the fact all bags were weighed together and placed in the same spot. I was told it would come down the next day and they would put the bag on a bus to San Jose. It could be picked up on Monday. Yeah, right! This was Thursday evening. I knew if I did that, I would probably never see the bag again. So.....I said good bye to everyone as they returned to San Jose and I stayed another night at the base hotel. This actually turned out to be perfect. I had a hot shower - the first since leaving my home Monday am, and best of all a quite room to sleep in. The next morning the bag did arrive by horseback at 10am. At 11am a Taxi picked me up to drive me into the closest town - San Isidro. I was told there would be a bus from there to the coast at 1pm. Wrong... the bus left at 3:30. Fortunately, there were 2 young guys now into their 3rd day ever in CR waiting for the same bus. I suggested we get a taxi and for $10 each we were on our way. After arriving in Dominical, about 20 minutes later a bus came by headed up the coast where I needed to go. About 4 hours later I finally arrived at my bus stop on the highway outside of Esterillos. As I was crossing the street, a young Tico on a motorcycle asked if I wanted a ride. I told him the one bag was very heavy. He said no problem. So with my backpack and another travel bag I hopped on and immediately hit my leg on a very, very hot tail pipe. I actually heard the singe. That was now 2 weeks ago last Friday and it is just now looking good. I still can't believe how bad it was for less than a second contact. But..... it was.
The next day after my return, I moved into my new place. This is a place I now have long term. This is a place I now call home rather than a temporary place while trying to decide just what I wanted to do. I now know just what I want to do. I am living in Costa Rica with no plans for returning to the states. I sent some of you photos of my new home. The photos were a bit deceiving. It looks like a huge house but it 2 units. I have the bottom unit. It is rather small but has a separate bedroom. I am on a hill with the gardner and housekeeper living in a small house in front. Onyx is a great watch dog and takes care of all of us. I feel very safe. I am on the same hill I have lived most of the time I have been here. There is a great breeze and ocean view. A 5 minute walk down the hill takes me to the beach I love. I feel like I am home.
Last week I needed to do the 90 day thing. Most everyone I have formerly travelled with had already been out of CR during the holidays - so - I went to Nicaragua by myself. A beautiful beach town named San Juan Del Sur on the Pacific side Another adventure getting there in that the taxi got me to the bus stop after the bus I needed to catch had already passed. Again - long story short - I did make it, not the way I planned but another adventure never the less. When I crossed the border and got to San Juan by way of a cross country taxi drive, dodging cattle and potholes, I had the driver drop me off at the beach. I had seen a small hotel a block away on the way in. Turn out to be perfect. Clean, safe and very cheap. My next 3 days in San Juan turned out to be a wonderful surprise - a full Catholic mass on Saturday morning, dancing in the street that evening at the end of a political rally for mayor - the next 2 days spent with a young Nicaraguan man riding bicycles, seeing sights unknown to tourists. My 3 days in San Juan were magical. When I left early on Tuesday morning I knew I had been given a gift that will long be remembered.
Now that I have decided to truly live in Costa Rica I am now taking spanish lessons with my friend Eleanor - every other day at 9am. Last night I started salsa dancing lessons in Jaco Mon and Wed. evenings.
Well.........the nut shell has turned out to be a coconut.
Oh - one other thing. The mermaid on the reef was seriously damaged during the last rainy season. La Serena is 16 years old. I took it upon myself to collect money for the restoration. The original sculptor - who is now about 74 years old - lives in San Jose - came here to Esterillos and agreed to restore her. He only wanted money for the materials necessary to fix her. Collecting money from the local business has been an interesting challenge but the restoration is in progress. Just before Christmas, I spent 4 of the 5 afternoons on the reef with Mr. Cepedas. He only speaks spanish but with my limited speaking abilities we clearly understood each other. He made resin and fiberglass molds to repair the arms and hip. I am not sure how all this will turn out but he is on it and it makes me happy to know I had a lot to do with saving her.
Once again I have probably put many of you asleep. Sorry these updates always become longer than I intend.
I often think of all of you. I wish you well and hope you find a magical moment in every day.
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