Esterillos Oeste is a small fishing/surfing community. Surfers come and go but the Tico fisherman have been here for many years. My favorite, of course, is Minior. He is 43 years old and has lived in Esterillos his whole life. To me he is like the old man of the sea. He and all his family live at the north end of the village where I live. At the other end is where the majority of the fishermen live. There are about a dozen pongas on the beach every day. A ponga is a 24ft open boat with an outboard motor. These boats are in the water everyday and are very weathered as are most of the fishermen.
Sometimes the fishermen go out all day - other times it is all night. I still have no idea how this is determined but for a long time - especially when I lived at the big house on the top of the hill and could see the small boat lights on the ocean at night - I have wanted to experience being on the water with these amazing men whom many know me. From the first time I came here I have walked past them many times as they were either setting out in the evenings or arriving early in the morning. I have many photos as you can image. I recognize most of them and know the names of a few. Some speak a little English and my Spanish is getting better.
In February, Peter and his girlfriend Mary Ann arrived here in Esterillos from British Colombia. He owns and guides an outfitter, horse packing business in the Rocky mountains he has lived most of his life. He plays guitar and sings and a number of times has played at gatherings I have been present. A very nice, delightful man.
Several weeks ago I was on the beach when he was telling some other friends about his night just spent on the ocean with a local fisherman. I immediately told him that was something I have wanted to do. He told me that if I really wanted to go, he would be happy to do it again. To me this was the answer to my dilemma. I really wanted to go - but all night on the ocean with 2 Ticos - ummmmmm - No. I told him I wanted to go when the moon was full.
Well...... I did it!!! Last Thursday, after Peter had made the arrangements, he and I met Alberto - whom I did know from a previous day trip. Alberto is 22, charming and fortunately does speak a little english.
The evening was perfect and with a beautiful sunset and the help of about 8 other men got the boat launched off the beach. Shortly after we entered the water, several other boats with 2 to 4 Ticos in each boat joined up with us. For about 45 minutes there was sort of tail gate party. Sharing of food, lots of talk and laughter - all in spanish of course. Some where teasing me - I just smiled back. It was dark but the moon was up when we all headed in our separate way.
Sailing across the water under a full moon was breathtaking. The air was warm and even tho I was wet from the launching and getting past the break, I was very comfortable. I am not sure how long we travelled - could have been 30 minutes to an hour - I truly have no idea. I was so caught up in the moment.
When we stopped and set anchor we got ready to fish. Fishing with a Tico is not like sport fishing you see on television. There are no rods - only the reel. I put my freshly chopped fish bate on my own hooks (2) and dropped the line in the water. When I felt the weight hit bottom, I pulled up about about a foot and began jigging - bouncing the weight up and down to get the fish's attention. All 3 of us were jigging and talking for about an hour. No fish - but I didn't care - it was so awesome to just be there.
I am sure some of you are wondering about the practicalities of being on an open boat with 2 men - like how do you pee?? This was high on my concern list before I went out. But after a short discussion with my captain and the use of a small bucket I did just fine. Sorry if this is more information than some of you may want.
It is hard to say how the rest of the evening went. Much of the time the 3 of us just sat there in silence enjoying the sound of the waves on the side of the boat. When we first set anchor, Alberto turned on the very small light that sits at the top of a 4 foot high pole. Again, even this pole was very rustic, bent, electrical wire hanging loose, hooked up to a weathered battery - but it worked - most of the time.
As I was sitting there looking at the lights on the coast - far in the distance I had this terrible feeling sweep over me - I was nauseous. I have never been sea sick but in that instance had a moment of panic with the thought that I may get so sick I would want to go back but knew no matter what, I would not ask. I started breathing deep and actually stood up. This helped. Then a good size swell rolled past. Again, light headiness and fear. This went on for what seemed like forever - actually maybe 30 minutes. Then it hit and over the side IT went - my late lunch from Margarita's. I had eaten about 2pm that afternoon so that I would not need a lot at night. The problem was she did not have my usual and instead I had arroz con pollo which is like a fried rice with chicken. The rice was a bit greasy and I am certain that was the problem I was now dealing with. It wasn't pretty but I immediately felt better. After that - no more sea sickness.
It was after 9pm when we all decided to bunker down. I knew this was going to be another challenge but the one I was also looking forward to. There were only 3 places to sit on this boat. The bench around the motor when Alberto was. Peter was on the bench at the other end and I was in the middle. Amazingly even at this time of night the temperature was perfect. I still had my shorts and top on and was perfectly comfortable but knew it would get colder in the night. I had borrowed a sweat jacket with a hood from a french/canadian friend and Peter had told me to bring socks. I also had a good size beach towel and a poncho if it rained. Alberto spread out a tarp on my bench that looked like it came from WWI. My pillow was my life jacket. Yes it was hard, but on that rocking boat in the middle of the ocean with the full moon smiling down on me I slept and I slept.
I am guessing but I believe it was about 2 or 3 when I woke up. I crawled over Peter to get the bucket for the pee thing. Bad planning on my part.
After taking care of business, I just sat. Both men were sound asleep and it was me, the ocean and that moon.........It was magical........... another moment I will never, never forget. The temperature was cool, but not uncomfortable. I could not have asked for a more perfect night on the open ocean with these two wonderful men.
Just before the sun came up and about 15 minutes before the moon went down, all 3 of us woke up at the same time. The sky was still dark but the moon was a deep orange. Again, all 3 of us just sat there taking it all in.
As soon as the moon was gone, Alberto dropped a line in the water and immediately had a good size red snapper. Two more were caught within about 10 minutes. It took awhile to get reorganized and get the anchor up - then we headed back in. After a short distance, another Tico boat also headed in, came up next to ours. Friends from the previous night. They also had a few fish but said the moon was too bright for good fishing.
The morning was clear and bright. Saw a number of dolphin and one large turtle. The air warm and perfect.
As we got close to our beach I could see that the swell was large and was wondering how we would get in without getting drenched. I momentarily forget that even 22 year old Alberto has been on the ocean his whole life and landing was nothing new to him. I have been out with Minior and other fishermen during the day many times before. Going out and coming back in are my favorite part. Watching the swell and riding in between the waves is a skill acquired after many years of practice. Alberto brought us in without hardly a splash.
Once on shore, Peter and I unloaded our "stuff". Alberto gutted and cleaned the 3 red snapper that were caught and told us to come back at 9 am for breakfast.
At 9 sharp, Peter and Mary Ann picked me up and back we went. Alberto had the fish cooked whole and all 4 of us enjoyed a delicious breakfast at the bar/restaurant there on the beach.
After breakfast I was so proud of myself. I felt good like I had had a perfect night's sleep. By 3 pm I could hardly keep my eyes open and had an afternoon nap which is almost unheard of for me.
To be honest - it took me until after a nap the next day to feel like I had had enough sleep.
The most amazing things still continue to happen to me here in Costa Rica. This was just another one of those gifts she has given me for which I will always truly be thankful.
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