A week ago Friday - Nov. 2nd - I caught the bus here in Esterillos and rode the 2 1/2 hour ride to the airport in San Jose. There my friend Marty picked me up - right on time. Thus the adventure began. We returned to the hotel he and his 2 sons had been staying for the past 2 days. Shortly after our arrival, all the bags were put in the 9 passenger van and off we went - me, Marty, Zach, Jr and Hazel - a 37 years old beautiful Tica who will be working and living with Marty and the boys beginning December. Hazel is a chef at the hotel they were staying. Marty and the boys met her last year and upon arrival in CR in August offered her the job of living with them, being housekeeper, cook, etc, etc, etc - a huge job considering she will have not just 2 boys but including Marty - 3! Off we went. First stop was to check out the container that had been shipped over here from Hawaii with all Marty's household belongings. We arrived at a shipping port on the Pacific side that had huge freight containers all around. Immediately Hazel proved to be worth gold as she is Tico and Spanish is her native tongue. She also speaks English which to us gringos is priceless. Marty was there to inspect the contents of his container. It was his understanding that all his belongings would be in one place - think again - we are in Costa Rica. Marty, Hazel and I were led to a huge warehouse where we were shown a pile of "some" of Marty's possessions. No order, no neatly stacked piles, no inventory sheet. Marty of course knows what he has and what he was seeing was only a portion of what he knew was in the container. Confusion and a touch of panic set in. After asking several other workers where the rest of his cargo was we were led to the other side of the warehouse, where way in the back was another pile - again, no order, no nothing other than things he recognized as his were there. No one seemed a bit concerned that all his belongings were scattered about the warehouse. Marty managed to take it all in stride, put a smile on his face and walked out believing all would be ok once his items were released by customs - whenever that may be.
We headed north and several hours later arrived in La Cruz - a beautiful Tico town just a few kilometers from Nicaragua on the Pacific side. La Cruz sits at the top of a hill that overlooks a very scenic bay. Down we went to the beach and arrived at a resort named Ecoplaya. By then it was dark and after check in we all headed for the pool.
The next morning Hazel and I awoke to a beautiful view of the ocean from the room we shard plus an active volcano that was actually in Nicaragua. All of us spent the day just enjoying the resort - playing volley ball in the pool, fooz ball in the rec room, eating, reading, eating, swimming, eating. For dinner we headed back up the hill and enjoyed dinner at a local restaurant were Hazel took the opportunity to teach me salsa dancing. That evening was karaoke and more salsa.
The next morning all of us went horseback riding. The 2 hour trip turned into a 3 1/2 hour trip - Marty knew the guide from last year and we got the deluxe ride thru a coffee plantation, up hills, cross streams, 3 different and amazing beaches, down the center of a very small town. My horse was a small tico black gelding. I fell in love with him and he took very good care of me. More swimming, eating, eating, playing in the afternoon.
The next morning we were on the road by 8am. I had been up very early and had a beautiful walk on the beach by myself. Peaceful and serene.
Before leaving La Cruz we stopped and picked up another friend of Marty's. 23 year old Fabien - Tico, handsome and delightful. He works for Alamo car rental at the border and knows most everyone there. He was going to Nicaragua with us and was extremely helpful getting all us of across and thru customs with Marty's van with no problems. Almost immediately, once you are past the small border town you are traveling next to Lake Nicaragua which is beyond huge. The first thing you see are 2 active volcanoes in the lake - each with smoke pouring out. As in Costa Rica everything was lush green. After about an hours' travel we turned off the pan american highway onto the road into Granada. I had been to Granada before last May but on a bus where so much was missed. This was a road I simply did not see before. I can't remember how many kilometers it was but it had to have been at least 20 miles on a road that looked like swiss cheese with all the pot holes. Animals everywhere - horses, cattle, pigs, goats, sheep, dogs, cats, chickens - both sides of the road - most free range. On the road were ox drawn carts and other plywood carts being pulled by sad to say extremely thin horses. People on bikes, many walking. Beautiful trees and vibrant green. I will never forget this road to Granada.
Upon arrival in Granada it took awhile to decide on where to stay but eventually we ended up at the place I had stayed in May - convenient, charming, and inexpensive. Out to dinner again to a very unique restaurant walking distance from the hotel. Early to bed for the boys and girls - guys went out to party. The next morning Jr. and I were up early and went walking thru the city I was very familiar with from my last visit. I was happy to be seeing it again. After walking for about an hour we arrived back at the hotel in time for breakfast. Afterwards Marty, Fabien and I headed back out to the plaza. By now, on one side of the plaza the horse drawn carriages were lined up in hopes of tourist wanting a ride. When my friend Ann and I were here last May we met Manuel who was the driver who showed us the city and became our taxi for the 2 days were were there. I scanned the carriages in hope of seeing Manuel. To my surprise - there he was. As I walked over to him he saw me and flashed me his beautiful smile. He got out of the carriage and gave me a hug as Marty and Fabien stood by wondering what was going on. I told Marty and Fabien to get in and that we were going back to the hotel to get Hazel and the boys. Thus we did and all 6 of us went riding with the best driver in Granada. I sat in front next to Manuel with Jr. on my lap. Another perfect day - this was Tuesday morning.
After the ride we packed up and headed back south for a beach town not too far from the boarder but about 25 kilometers from the main highway. About 20 minutes outside Granada, Marty hit one of the deep pot holes and immediately we had not one - but two bent rims and flat tires. Now remember - we are in Nicaragua - on the road to Granada - no other town in sight - but as luck would have it - about 100 feet away from where we stopped was a tire repair shop. Across the street was a house with an angel on top looking down upon us - how's that for luck. About an hour later we were back on swiss cheese road but traveling much slower. Upon arriving in the next town, the front tire went flat - again. Guess what - about a block away was yet another tire repair shop - this one larger than the one man show we had just dealt with. When Marty arrived in Costa Rica - the end of August - he purchased the van he now has. Can't remember the year but it is fairly new with not a lot of mileage - one can see these vans all over the country. The rim was now totally destroyed. Rim after rim was brought up to the van - but as in Cinderella - the shoe would not fit. As the workers took off in trucks and taxi's to search for the perfect rim, Marty found 2 roasted chickens with tortillas for all of us to eat. We pulled the ice chest out of the van to use as a table. Chairs were brought to us out of the shop and as we all sat around the ice chest, in the middle of a Nicaraguan tire repair shop, eating the chicken with our hands, 3 starving dogs joined us. We shared and gave them all we could spare. After "lunch" Marty, Fabien and Jr took a taxi back to Granada in hopes of finding a rim since the shop was not yet able to locate one. About 15 minutes after they were gone, Hazel, Zach and I heard a dog yelping in pain. I instantly knew it had been hit and asked Hazel to go see what had happened. Sure enough it was one of "our" dogs we had just feed - now dead by the road. :(
About 2 hours later the guys returned without a rim but intertubes in hand. These were placed in the tires just like on a bicycle and amazing all was fixed and we were on the road again. Once again we arrived at our destination - San Juan Del Sur - after dark. First stop was dinner. Another beautiful restaurant - on the beach with lights from boats in the bay and homes in the hills reflecting on the water. Before ordering, Marty, Jr. and I had to get our feet in the water - colder than what I am used to - but refreshing and invigorating. For dinner I had lobster piled high with garlic and butter - I cannot begin to tell you how delicious this was but even this did not beat the memory of pollo in a tire repair shop in the middle of nowhere Nicaragua.
8 year old Jr. has become my early morning walking partner. So... the next morning we were off again at 6am. We immediately went to the beach and walked thru the surf. We then toured the small town as kids in their uniforms were headed for school. Road workers were already busy at work and buses were on the go. The buses in Nicaragua are not as new and modern as in Costa Rica but rather like an old style school bus - but - each one is painted different from the others but all in bright, vibrant colors. Each bus that went by was a work of art and delight just to see. Breakfast was at the same wonderful restaurant on the beach and I got a great photo of a very large group of school kids walking down the beach.
Once again with Fabian's help, crossing the border back into Costa Rica was no problem. His home town was about 15 minute past the boarder and it was sad to have to say goodbye after so much fun.
The long trek back to San Jose began. We arrived in the city just before dark after having picked up a man with a very young child who was in need of a ride to the hospital. Marty is above and beyond generous and has an internal radar that zeros in on people in need of help. The man told us his wife died last year. The child was maybe 2. The man had a tooth problem from a recent fall from I think a bus. The child had a growth on his spine that he showed us that looked like a tumor and that was why he was going to the hospital. When we got to San Jose Marty gave him plenty of money to get to where he needed to go, food and a return trip home. This is Marty.
From here we still had about 3 hours to go to Limon on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica. Crossing the mountains in rain and fog was a bit stressful. Hazel just closed her eyes. We finally arrived at a hotel that is very new and still not yet complete. When Marty's friend Brian was here in September they all stopped at this hotel. It was not yet open but the owners agreed to let them stay and Marty, Brian and the boys became their first customers. In the lobby hangs a photo of the guys with the first colonies paid for the room. Marty and the boys are now honored guests and receive first class treatment at the amazing price of $50 per night. Although the pool is not yet finished, this place is right on the beach, surrounded by palm trees and I am certain - having travelled this highway all the way to Panama - that once completed this will be one of the very nicest places on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica. $50 is not what other guests will be paying but I am sure Marty will always be the honorary guest with the special price.
What would you call a cross between a basset hound and a german shepard? That amazing mutant cross is a wonderful dog named Rocky. He is the mascot and delight of the hotel. Hours were spent watching Rocky and Jr. run up and down the balcony. We spent the next two days here - most of the time it was raining. That did not stop us from going into Limon to watch Jr. have his head shaved by a young barber holding just a double edge blade in his hand or having dinner each night at the nicest restaurants Limon had to offer - one on the beach - the other overlooking the city. Hazel and I continued dancing salsa with Spanish MTV and Zach was blissfully consumed for 2 days with the sports channel.
On Saturday morning - the ninth day of this vacation - we headed back to San Jose. On the way, Marty took us to Turialba - the small town located in the mountains between San Jose and Limon were just a few weeks ago he purchased a farm on 2 acres. This is where he will remodel and expand the existing house. The area is beautiful with a large river running thru the valley which was the huge draw since he and the boys are into white water rafting. The house is off the main road and will be very peaceful and safe. I took a photo of Marty, the boys and Hazel in front of the house and was happy to be a part of the beginning of a new life for all of them. A life that will be full of adventures, friends and family, and wonders that only Costa Rica will present to them.
San Jose is not my favorite place but that is where the bus terminal is. Saturday afternoon, tons of traffic - not a pretty sight - but we made it. The 3 o'clock bus was full but I got a ticket for the 4 o'clock. Gave both my boys a kiss, my new friend Hazel a hug and could not begin to thank Marty for such a wonderful trip. Good-byes were said and off they went. The bus was on time and 2 1/2 hours later I was back in Jaco. Short taxi ride and I was home - back in my small room in the beach house.
With the lights out I just smiled thinking about the adventure just shared with friends I have only know for less than 3 months. But this is life in Costa Rica - free, amazing and always a surprise.
Muchas Gracias Mar-teen!!!
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