Peru 8/2010

This past March I got an e-mail from my friend Erin in San Diego asking if I wanted to do the 4 day trek to Machu Picchu - In August - with her and whatever other friends of hers' wanted to go. Immediately I sent a response saying count me in!

The next several months were spent arranging the tour that would take us, deposits made, itineraries shared, hotel reservations booked, bus tickets purchased, etc, etc. Erin is the one who pulled most of this together and for all of us who made it......we cannot thank her enough!

I first met Erin when she and her boyfriend Chad and their amazing dog Rhino showed up in Esterillos in Feb. 2008. I met them at Soda Mary's the morning after they arrived. They had driven a suburban all the way from San Diego and after 40 days - lots of surfing, etc, - had landed in my little village. They had no plans but were considering staying. Just that morning I had spoke with my good friend Brigitte. She and her husband own one of the most beautiful homes in all Esterillos. It is the one at the top of the hill, the one I had the pleasure of house sitting two summers prior for 5 months, the "Presidential Palace". Brigitte was looking for someone to house sit for a month starting in about a week. After I spoke with Chad and Erin, within 15 minutes I knew they would be perfect for the house. Hooked them up with Brigitte that afternoon and they were on. When the month was over, they rented another house here in Esterillos and stayed until August of that year. During their time here, Chad proposed and they were engaged. They were married last August in San Diego - on the beach near the historical Coronado Hotel. Rhino and I were part of the wedding party - seriously!

The start of this amazing trek began at 4:30 am when the tour van picked all of us up at the hotel in Cuzco. Most of us had been in Cuzco for about 4 days prior just to adjust to the altitude. There was me, 7 amazing beautiful young girls plus Erin's dad Mike. 4 years ago he had either hip or knee surgery - can't remember which - but was determined he would make it. We had two guides. The lead guide was Santiago. We had met him the night before at our "briefing". At that time we had no idea the significance he would play in our lives. Marcelino was the 2nd guide and as it turned out he was Mike's constant companion and made sure he would make it to the end.

At 4:30 am it was still dark. We drove for about 2 hours before we stopped for breakfast. Another hour we were finally at the check point where the trek would truly begin. When this tour was booked in April I had my old passport. In May I needed to renew and received a new number. The tour company had been given both but at this check point......they had neither. Santiago worked his magic and in moments I was with the group walking across the swinging bridge that signified the start of the big adventure.

For the first couple of hours the path was wide, fairly easy, a steady climb up. At one point I was actually thinking 3 full days of this would be simply wonderful. A stroll thru the Andean Mountains of Peru..... It was less than 15 minutes after this thought that reality hit. The first set of stairs.......not like steps to your upstairs bedroom......steps in some places that were as high as my knee.........serious steps!!! And that was how it went from there on out. We were either going up.....or going down - most of the time on rocks or steps that you had to look at every single step.

Besides our small group of 9, two guides, we also had 15 porters. These men carried all of our supplies, food, tents, sleeping bags, tables, chairs, their own gear, propane for cooking, etc, etc. - on their backs! At the end of the day we would arrive at "camp". Our tents all ready set up, bowls of warm water sitting out side our tents, towels hanging close by. The food..........OMG...........THE Food! Piles, and piles of delicious food! Mostly traditional, every dish a picture of perfect presentation. On the 2nd night we had baked trout - trout - I have no idea how they provided all of us with fresh fish. Another night we had a dessert of flaming banana something or another - lit it up right there in our tent! The best of all was our last morning. We had cake - not just any cake......but a cake so colorfully decorated - so amazing - so delicious- at 4 am to start our morning descent upon Machu Picchu. All of us girls were totally delighted!

I could go on and on about the 3 full days prior to Machu Picchu. Besides the thousands of steps up and down.....their were the numerous Inka ruins along the way - all of which Santiago would passionately tell us what little is actually known about each site.

For the most part of this trek I was alone. Of course I was with everyone in camp - morning, lunch and night - but the actually hike itself was done alone. The girls were on a mission - within minutes of leaving camp - they would be out of site. Mike was slow but steady - One of the girls named him Tortuga. I reminded them of the story of the tortoise and the hare. I wasn't fast - I wasn't slow - just a nice steady pace in the quite of the Andean Mountains following a trail that was laid thousands of years ago. I saw llamas in the valleys, a few water falls. There were breathtaking views of distant snow covered peaks, distant rivers and ranges, and cloud forests flush with orchids. By the end of the day I was exhausted but not alone. Every single one of us was in the same state. I never once thought I would not make it ........I always knew I would.

Our last night together we were camping in an area that overlooked a huge valley. The stars at night were the most brilliant I have ever seen. The moon was a small sliver and with no other lights, the sky was lit up by thousands.......millions of twinkling lights. The best part was the Milky Way......like a mystical vapor of light floating amongst all the stars above us. Before climbing into our tents, me and 3 of the girls spent time alone in the dark just looking at the sky. No words were said........nothing could have described that moment.

Another long story.....but at dinner on that last night we as a group, with our guide Santiago, made the decision to get up at 3:30.....A.M.!!!!!! - Breakfast at 4 - head out of camp by 4:30 so that we could be the first group at the check point which is required before entering the last area that leads right into Machu Picchu. Once you go thru the check point there is about an hour more before you reach the "Sun Gate". It is here you want to be as the sun is rising and as it lights up the valley below which is where Machu Picchu rests. Santiago had given us the choice of getting up very early or sleeping in for another hour - and arriving at the check point about the time it opened - knowing there would be others ahead of but would still make it to the Sun Gate as the sun came up. All of us made the decision we wanted to be first and would be up and ready to go right after breakfast at 4:30am and that is what we did. When the man came to check us in - promptly at 5:30 am - we had been there for an hour with all the other groups now behind us and waiting to get thru. As soon as we were thru.........we began to run!

Seriously running........It was still dark but we all had head lamps. Mike was with Marcelino and I knew he would eventually make it but I was with the girls and I wanted to be with them as the first group to arrive. Up the stairs.......down the stairs.........carefully watching each and every step as time was a factor and there was no room for a fall or mistake. I was going as fast as I could possible go and right behind the last girl. I could go up as fast as they but the down was harder and I was more cautious. Every once and a while it would flatten out for a short stretch and I would run to catch up. I managed to do this for quite awhile but then they got a head and out of sight. The sun was coming up and I could feel one of my shoe laces was undone. I didn't want to stop as I knew that would cost me time. 10 - 15 more minutes - I was getting hot. Finally I stopped. I pulled off my cap, yanked off my gloves, tied both shoes......looked over my shoulder.......saw no one behind me and started running again.

It was at this moment I realized this was my "Amazing Race". When I lived in the states the reality show "The Amazing Race" was my most favorite. Every episode I saw I wanted that to be me - in a race around the world - the winners taking home the prize of 1 million dollars. I was now in my very own "Amazing Race". Several times I stopped to glance - quickly - at the scene around me. The valley and mountains across from me - the sun rising and the golden glow - I was in Peru........then another quick - very quick glance over my shoulder - still no one......more running. Until......the damn stairs - again - not the small steps - the huge - Inka size steps - never ending....up, up, up. And then.......finally, I heard a familiar sound - the girls. The same sound I had heard every day as I reach camp - alone - the voices of my team mates. Santiago had named us the Spice Girls and I was a part of this team. No one had passed me yet - it had to be the Sun Gate. As I crested the top of the peak and ran thru the Gate - there they were and there......there was Machu Picchu below us. She was still in shadow as the sun had not yet risen high enough. On this amazing day, the Spice Girls were the first ones thru the Sun Gate and Machu Picchu waited for us below. No longer than 3 minutes passed before 2 young guys came thru after me........I was beyond thrilled to have won my own Amazing Race.

When Mike arrived, more photos were taken and then the descent began. The next several hours were spent in the company of Santiago as he continued our education as to the lifestyle and history of the Inkas. We were all given a few hours free time and told when and where we all needed to meet up for lunch in the small town about 15 minutes down the mountain - by bus - from the site. No photograph and certainly nothing I could ever say..........could ever describe the size, the magic, the mystery of Machu Picchu. It is simply a place that has to be experienced......and for each person, a totally different experience. As for me.......I will forever be grateful to have been a part of this group, this trek, this amazing place!

Me and 3 of the girls were the last to arrive at lunch. Erin's mother did not do the hike but was at the site when we arrived in the morning and was now with all of us for lunch. I was sitting near the end of the long table right next to Santiago. Several times he had walked with me on the hike and so by now I felt very close to him. I was trying to explain just how significant the run to the Sun Gate was to me and relating it to a reality show in the states. After telling him just how important all that was he told me that he has been doing this tour for 5 years - which I already knew from a previous group discussion. But what he then told me, that in all that time, it had been his dream to be the very first one thru the Sun Gate and Today.......that very day.........was his first time ever to be the first. I just looked at him and then repeated what he said......."Today........ was your first time ever......... to be the first one thru the Sun Gate?" Yes, was his answer.

I raised my hand and said "Girls.......Santiago just told me.........." and then I told them what he had said. As the lead guide it is his responsibility to make sure we all make it. On this day he had a group of girls who had proved to him they would make it and wanted to be first. As he neared the end he sprinted ahead and got to the gate a few minutes before the group. He told us how happy he was to have that time alone at the Sun Gate. We were all beyond thrilled for our Santiago.

After lunch he walked all of us to the train that would take us an hour or two to our bus and then back to Cuzco - the former capital of the Inka's. Saying good-bye was hard. Santiago had been our man, our leader, our inspiration, our teacher. We all simply loved him!

The next morning most of the group headed back to California. Shortly after they left the hotel, Erin's sister Chelsea, her friend Mary and I all caught a taxi to the bus station. The 3 of us would spent the next week exploring more of Peru. We were headed south to Lake Titicaca where we would spent the next couple days seeing more Inka sites on the route to Puno. From there we took a 5 hour boat ride to a remote island named Amantani. Along the way we saw the famous floating islands that are made of reefs by the inhabitants who live there. In the distance we could see the snow covered mountain peaks of Bolivia.

On Amantani we stayed in rustic cabins provided by our native hosts Ricardo and Francela. Francela cooked our meals over an open fire in her dirt floor kitchen. Puno and Lake Titicaca are known for folklore.That evening we sat and watched a dance performed by the locals in the town plaza. Afterwards we walked to the top of the island past 2 ruins - Pachamana (Mother Earth) and Pachatata (Father Earth). According to Andean belief Lake Titicaca gave birth to the sun as well as the mother and father of all Inkas - Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo.

The following morning we once again took a slow boat back to the main land - caught a 3 pm bus to Arequipa which is the 2nd largest city in Peru. By the time we got there it was dark and getting late.

Our plan was to book a tour that would take us to Canon Del Colca which set amount high volcanoes and is twice a deep as the Grand Canyon. In fact it is the world's 2nd deepest canyon. The deepest is also in Peru about 10 hours from where we were.

Mary had tried to book a tour on-line before arriving in Peru but could not find anything. Long story short - but...we got up very early - walked the empty streets waiting for an agency to open - after returning to our hotel managed to catch a tour heading out within 30 minutes of our call. A bit frustrating.....but we were on our way. Saw El Misti - the huge volcano that towers over Arequipa - long bus ride thru valleys were llamas grazed - many stops for the "tourists". By evening we were in Chivay. Chivay......not much to say about Chivay other than it was a very rustic, dusty transportation hub for the wave of tourists on their way to the canyon. However, it was here, me and the girls took a ride in "taxi" that was more like a covered, motorized 3 wheel bicycle with a bench for us 3 in the back. With a bottle of wine we laughed all the way to the hot springs which is where most of our bus group all ready was. Instead of the tubs, Mary and I opted for the zip line across and back the canyon. This was very fun and made the day! We ended the evening with some of the best pizza ever.

Up again at 4:30 am we were on our way.......in search of condors!

Before the canyon - more stops - quaint mountain villages, plazas full of residents in native costumes, more llamas. Riding along the rim, the canyon got deeper and deeper - more and more beautiful. Then we stopped to take a short hike. As the guide was giving us the details about the depth we saw the first condor flying up the canyon. It was below us but with the early morning sun it was in clear view. I will....never........forget.............that...........moment!

From there our group walked up to a much high point of view and there... all around us... were condors. My guess is about a dozen. Some above, some below in the canyon. Before I reached the highest point and was walking by myself, I heard a swoooosh above my head. There a short distance over head were 2 condors that flew up behind me and past me. The sound.......the swoosh...........that will also forever be with me.

Within a hour of the first sighting, the sun was well up and they were gone to other places - hunting, whatever condors do.........

Many hours later, that evening Mary, Chelsea and I sat on a balcony overlooking the magnificent Plaza de Armas of Arequipa. One of the most beautiful city night scenes I have ever seen. It was here we shared a simple meal, a glass of wine and said good-bye. I caught a cab to the bus terminal and headed back to Cuzco. They did the same but went to Lima.

My last day in Peru was spent alone in Cuzco. After 4 days prior to the big hike with Erin and all the other girls, we had shared and did a lot in this ancient city. I was comfortable, knew my way around and way just happy to be there. The following morning I would fly to Lima and then back to Costa Rica.

My first flight from Cuzco to Lima was on PeruvianAir. After 3 departure gate changes we were on our way. I thought I would have 2 hours between flights to get from one airline to another in plenty of time. After the delays..... I was late. By the time I got to Taca Airlines I had about an hour left. At first the ticket agent could not find my name even tho she was holding my reservation in her hand. Finally she had it but then told me the plane was full.........so.............she was moving me up to FIRST CLASS - Yahoooooooo!

At that is how it all ended. Me in First Class with my comfeeeey seat watching the beautiful world below me.

Thank you Erin - for your love, your friendship, for inviting me to join you and your amazing friends on this once in a life time adventure!!

Pura Vida

Crocodiles - Again 2/27/10

The following is a quote from my wise good friend Darrel Parker - Superior Court Administrator, Santa Maria, CA:

"We all have crocodiles in our lives. Some have bigger teeth, some have no teeth. They are hazardous to us all the same.

Don't let the crocodiles ruin your day, but proceed cautiously all the same."

Out with the old, In with the new.....1/2010

Happy New Year!!!!!! Can you believe it. ****2010***** Remember when everyone was worried about Y2K.......seems like yesterday!!

The holidays were an absolute whirl wind - Collecting and distributing toys to the kids all over town, parties, the 2nd annual EO (Esterillos Oeste) locals only surf tournament held between Christmas and New Year's was a huge success, more parties, Fred and Brigitte's annual New Year's Eve party. This year's theme - Blue Moon, any thing goes and it did........., fireworks almost every night for about 2 weeks, arrival of the Texas boys which always puts everything over the top, moooore parties, the 2nd annual New Year's Day surf photo which I dreamed up last year, was once again awesome. Surfing almost every day - great waves and a perfect 80 degrees water temp.

The Texas boys left last Wed, the 13th and it looked like things might slow down so instead of letting that happen - a road trip was planned. Actually, Larry - from Oregon who comes here each season for about 5 months and I needed to do the 90 day thing. Cailin and my beautiful 36 year old friend Jeni (Eleanor's daughter from Canada who has lived in Costa Rica off and on since she was 18) wanted to go also. Larry has a car so we took off for Panama. There are newly paved roads from here to there and we figured the trip to the border would take about 4 hours.

So off we went - cold beers, Jeni's i-pod blasting tunes. We left the car at the border in a secure place then took a taxi for the hour and a half ride to Boquete. The cost was $40 so $10 each - perfect. Boquete is in the mountains - None of us had ever been there before - friends were just there a few weeks ago and told us about great white water rafting and a horse tour thru a coffee plantation. We were all on board for all that. When we got there, we discovered there was a 10 day festival going on - ending this weekend. At first that sounded good until we discovered trying to find a place to stay was a challenge. Actually we lucked out and found a hostel, a bit eccentric but that's ok for $8 per person, right in the middle of town. There was only one room left with 2 twin beds. Cailin - my travel partner to Ecuador - and I have spent the last couple months sleeping together in a wide variety of places so this was just one more - we shared a twin bed - Jeni had the other. Larry was in another room with 2 guys from Germany. It was a fun evening until we got back to the hostel with expectations of sleeping............oh no, the music which was several blocks away was so loud it might as well have been in our room. This went on for hours................There was very little sleep that night.

So.......the next morning at breakfast we decided on a new plan.

I have a friend living in Panama - less than 2 hours away from where we where - who I had contacted before I left and asked if we could visit if we got the chance. He had told me absolutely.

Two years before coming to Costa Rica I was dating a guy named Brian who lived up the CA coast from me - about 30 minutes away. Next door to him was Juan who was living with his girlfriend. Juan is from South Africa. The first time I met him I was in awe as he has that S. African accent, is very handsome and extremely nice. I met him right after he had made his first trip to Panama.

His story is very interesting - he was born and raised in a small village in S. Africa. He was the first one to leave the village.....For a few years he led safari's in Africa and met a number of wealthy people. The most important person he met was an accountant for Hugh Hefner. About this same time he was very involved with political issues and found himself in a very dangerous situation. He was hired by Hefner to take care of the exotic animals on a ranch. (Ha) Here he met a ton of people and became a contractor for building homes. He built something for Van Halen and a wide variety of famous people. He was drinking a lot and living on the edge as you can imagine.

Then one day he cut off 4 fingers with a circular saw. They found 3 and had them attached. His pinky was gone.

It was at this point he realized he needed to do something else if he wanted to live. He wanted to go back to a simple life. I have no idea how he ended up with the girlfriend in Cayucos because Cayucos is a pretty small, low key beach town north of where I used to live which was the central coast of CA.

I have no idea how he came up with Panama but after several trips he began buying property.

He now lives on a large farm - over a hundred acres plus another farm that is connected that he shares with a partner - with a variety of animals who all love him. 3 amazing dogs, a few cats, a horse he does not ride just hangs with, a variety of cows that also love him. A scarlet macaw that just showed up one day about 6 mos ago and now comes for a visit every morning and every evening. You cannot touch him but he will eat peanuts out of your hand. He also has 2 families that live on the farm and help do the work. His goal is to become totally independent of the rest of the world. This does not mean he is anti-social for he is one of the most kind and wonderful men I have ever met - he is just done with all the bull shit.

This was the place I talked everyone into going to. This decision turned out to be one of the greatest things to have happen. Juan and I have been in contact since I last saw him on his farm 2 years ago. I tell him about my adventures - he sends me photos of the newest calf or puppy. We have become good friends because of our love for central america.

So, we all left Boquete on a Panamanian bus and headed for Volcan - which is a very small beautiful mountainous town in the central northern area of Panama - very close to Panama's largest volcano. The area is very rural with a lot of ranching and farming. By the way - this was my 5th trip to Panama - 3 times on the Caribbean side, this the 2nd trip to the Pacific. Panama is beautiful and way cheaper than CR. The currency is US dollars. I love Panama!!

We got there early afternoon and for that day, all the next and part of Sunday we all lived in harmony in this magical place - and I sincerely mean magical!! We played in a very cold pool in the river behind the house, hiked all over the property, Cailin and Jeni prepared an awesome meal from all the food that was collected in one morning, (Larry & I did the dishes) sipped rum and coke all afternoon while feeding the macaw peanuts, did yoga in the front yard. Played with the dogs, cows, etc. The first night we went to a dinner hosted at a restaurant that was owned by friends. Juan has a panamanian girlfriend - we all went dressed up. There was live music and when the group had finished for the night - Cailin took over and blew everyone away. We met another couple there - Spike and Wendy who fell in love when they were 18 and are now in their mid 60's. Spike is Panamanian as his father was helping to build the canal when he was born. Wendy is from Texas but she and Spike have lived most of their lives in Panama.

I could go on and on about this amazing trip - just 4 days, 4 very wonderful days - oh..........the bed. In Juan's spare bed room is a king size bed that must be made of feathers as it is one of those you just sink into topped off with a cozy comforter as the nights there are pretty cool - Jeni, Cailin and I - all three slept together like the 3 bears.

From Volcan, Jeni went on to Bocas del Toro on the Caribbean side and the rest of us returned to Oeste.

The holidays are now gone, no more Texas boys, most visitors have returned home - it is QUITE. Yesterday morning there were only 4 people out surfing - me, Brett, Larry and a guy from Wisconsin.........This morning - same thing - me and Brett, two other guys. I actually took a nap yesterday - when things slowed down I realized I was exhausted!!!

For such a small town - things are constantly happening here. The 2nd annual EO Mardi Gras is scheduled for Feb. 13th. We had a "krewe sirena" meeting Tuesday evening. We've all had a few days to catch our breath, however, by this weekend I predict this quite period will be over. Oh, just remembered, there is a surf tournament in a small town about 15 miles down the coast - Bandera. Soda Mary Surf Team has been asked to help - which means, do all the set up, judging, and everything associated with that event. I being a dedicated member of the SMST will be on board for what ever. This will by 4th surf event I have been actively involved with - I love it.

Happy New Year to all of you. When I write these long messages I seriously think of each and every one of you.

Some of you have homes here, some of you have come for a visit, some will probably never come......but please know I love you, I so wish I could have you here with me. I am thankful for every single day I have here. So........if you have not been to EO - consider a trip this year. I would love nothing more than to show you this amazing, beautiful paradise named Esterillos Oeste.

One more thing......I forgot to mention our new bowling alley. It is one lane - we only have one ball. It is located at El Vago's - one of the bars on the beach. This is also the area we use for yoga Mon and Thursday mornings. The lane is concrete with a few pot holes that just add to the challenge. The back drop and pins are made from bamboo. Like all small towns we have our very own eclectic group of drunks and crack heads that hang in this particular area. At first they had no idea what was going on. Now some of them are getting pretty good. We've actually had a few strikes.

Happy New Year!

These are a few of my favorite things - 10/12/09

I cannot even remember when I last sent out one of my "updates" . Stories of some of the ongoing, daily amazing things that happen here in Costa Rica.

Tonight while sitting on the back balcony at my friend Eleanor's house - we enjoyed a glass of wine while watching one of the greatest shows on earth - an intense lightening, thunder storm over the hills and jungle behind her house. It was then I decided I needed to start a list.

So.....here are a few on my favorite things:

Fire flies - always seen on any given evening but especially delightful when one is in your cabina after the lights go off. It is truly amazing just how much light one single fire fly can put out.

This evening and most evenings - seeing a flock of scarlet macaws explode out of an Almendro tree as I am walking on the beach.

Surfing - I cannot fully explain the joy surfing has brought to my life. I am still very afraid of the ocean but love her at the same time. As I am walking towards the water quite often my heart is racing but once my feet are in.... I forget everything...... everything and am consumed with the joy of being. The joy of surfing is so hard to explain. As in all other "sports" - there are no rules to surfing. Each person in the water is there for the pure joy of whatever it is they personally receive and it is very personal. What I do know is there is a bond between the people who share this joy. It cannot be expressed in words....for each person has a totally different experience and drive for being there. I am at my happiest when I am in the company of others who share this obsession. It is a huge part of my life here in Esterillos. I can sit for hours just talking and listening to others share their love and experiences while surfing. Just this morning Cam told me about his morning yesterday. While in Este, he was on a great wave and riding with him where about 5 or 6 manta rays each one having about a foot and half wing span. Amazing!!

For several weeks in Feb, the waves were very small. One morning I walked down the hill straight for Soda Mary - where many of my surfer friends either live or stay. Sure enough, about 6 of the guys were just sitting there. The waves were so small, they were so disgusted - no one was going out. I decided I was going no matter what - even tho the thought of this terrifies me. So....sure enough, I grab my board and head for the beach - about 5 minutes away. They were right - no waves. I'm thinking - good, no danger of getting caught in something way to big for me, not the season for crocodiles.....what can go wrong??

One of the things I really love about early morning paddle is when the waves are flat - is how the board cuts thru the water and while doing so, the sun shinning on the wax beads up so that is literally looks like sparkling diamonds. Right away I was thankful for coming out. As soon as I got just about where I wanted to be I could see a large flock of pelicans coming my way. Quite often they swoop down, kinda close and as they go by - they give you the eye.....Sure enough here they came, but instead of going on just one side of me - they split and now I had pelicans within 20 feet on each side - giving me that eye. I was delighted and now really glad I had come out.

Since I have been in Costa Rica - I have been fishing a lot. Often with my tico friend Minor in his small ponga boat, several times in fancy sport fishing boats out of fancy, over-priced Los Suenos. Many times I have seen fish swarming on the surface. That is always a good sign when fishing. Until this day I had never once seen anything other than an occasional fish jump close by while surfing.

So there I was sitting, still thinking about the pelicans, a bit nervous because I really do not like being out alone. All of a sudden a fish jumped - it was between me and the shore. Then another, then a bunch. All of a sudden there was a cluster F-^@$%^ of fish!!!!!!!!!!! I was TERRIFIED!!!!!! I could only imagine the large creature trying to feed on this swarm of fish. I immediately dropped onto my board and started paddling parallel with the shore - as fast as I could possible go. When I finally stopped and sat up I was almost in tears - considered going in. I sat there literally catching my breath......all was calm and quite. Within a few more minutes the jumping started again but this time a little ways down from me. I was concerned...but not terrified and again started paddling back to where I had come from.

Once I got back to my regular spot, I saw 2 friends walking on the beach. Now I didn't feel so alone. Then another amazing thing happened. A set came rolling thru that actually had waves large enough to ride and so I did. I caught a wave all the way to shore, declared it a wonderful day and got out.

Other memorable days: The first time I did a left - I still do not do lefts very well but this first was extremely exciting as I turned while I was on a wave that was reforming and before I knew it...... I was flying all the way to the beach. All that day and even the next, I asked my friends repeatedly "did I tell you about the left I caught" They all just smiled. It was so, so, so exciting.

The morning I almost had a barrel: I did not see it - I had no idea it was happening other than I knew there was water around my head. Another friend described it to me - my almost barrel.

The morning Pepper and I did a double, synchronized, over the falls because neither of us were paying any attention to Mother Ocean and she snuck up behind us and sent us flying.

The day the water was so clear I could see the reef below me while riding a long wave into shore.

The day I paddled out to the "secret" spot with several of the guys. I caught a wave, saw the rocks coming up - quickly - bailed - got caught in a set - was thankful I got to the outside and survived it all - decided this was not a place for me. Almost immediately, Cam paddles over and tells me his leash broke. I tell him to trade me boards as I am not surfing again and would be happy to just sit on his long board. We trade, he heads for the waves. Within 5 minutes I am getting paranoid of sitting on the outside by myself. This area is a spooky mysterious place........so........I head in on a board that is almost 2 feet longer than what I am used to. As I am walking out of the water the 2 guys on the shore point out the small crocodile (about 6 feet) off to the side near the reef. He's at least 100 feet away, but still.............At that moment I decided the "secret" spot was not the place for me, that was until 2 months later.

Two months later the Texas boys were here and I had told them I would paddle out one morning with my waterproof camera and take photos. The morning came, I walked down to the beach - no one out. I realized they must have gone to the "secret" spot since a good swell was rolling thru. The day was perfect, I had the camera......I took a deep breath and started the 15 minute walk down the beach to find them. Sure enough the waves were BIG. Another deep breath and I headed out. The paddle out is long, but I put my head down and went for it - trying not to think about the last time I was there with the crocodile........Obviously I survived, I did make it out, the waves were the largest I had ever seen while actually being in the water myself. Sitting off to the side - safely taking photos was breathtaking. Maybe 20 minutes went by, one of the guys paddled over to me after catching one of the huge waves. As we were talking here came a rouge set and my safe zone was no more. Seriously, this was the largest wave I had ever seen up close and personal. I was hoping to go over the top but it broke just before it reached me. I attempted my turtle roll and got the most dramatic spin I have ever had. It seemed like forever before I came up. Then another wave......... then - another. The amazing thing was I was not afraid, I did not hit bottom, I did not think I would die! -Instead, I survived, later was grateful for the experience.......but never want to do that again. I'll attach a photo from that day.

I really didn't get too far on my list but obviously surfing has become a very, very important part of my life.

I will work on the rest of the list later - Gotta go surfing early in the morning......

Did I tell you about the left I caught?????

Pura Vida

Mother, Mother Ocean - 10/4/09

Living so close to the ocean I am constantly aware of her presence - the sounds, the smells, the dramatic change from a soft blue wave to thundering, threatening anger.

Today, Esterillos was once again reminded not to take her for granted. My friends Kate and Dave had a man and his 85 year old father visiting from NC - staying in their cabina. Both men came here last Feb, fell in love with CR and returned this week. While watching the frisbee games on the beach, Jim and I were talking about him seeing me jump off the log up at the waterfalls last Feb. and thought I was crazy. Then we talked about other things - that was about 7pm yesterday.

This morning Jim and his father left Kate and Dave's cabina about 7 am and - no one knows for sure what happened - but they both drowned. The 40something son washed up on the beach in front of LowTide about 8:30am. I just now came up the hill and as of yet - the father has not been found. The assumption is the father may have gone out into the water too far, was knocked down or got caught in a wave and Jim went in to rescue him. No one saw what happened.

In one morning - everything has forever changed for this family. Jim has a wife, a 15 year old daughter and 8 year old son. It is so sad........ I have been sitting with Kate just looking out on the ocean. Dave and another friend Scott made the call to the family in the states. Coast Guard is searching and several other boats are out. Last year - just about this same time - 2 teen age ticos drowned in centro - about a mile down the beach. The 16 year old washed up in front of El Vago the next morning. I was walking on the beach and watched them put a sheet over the body. The younger boy was never found.

So.......today - tell your family you love them. Make the most of every day. You never know when things will dramatically change... forever.

You - who are reading this now - are amongst the people I love the most. You are family, you are friends. Each of you has played a very important part in my life. Some of you I have known for many years - others less than a year. Please know that I love you and I am grateful for having you in my life.

A Three Hour Tour - 7/2008

Here's the tale of a fateful trip........

First of all the crew: Capitan Alain - a very, very interesting man. He and his wife Lucy arrived in Esterillos Oeste last November. Over a year prior to their arrival, Alain and Lucy had come to Costa Rica for a short vacation. When they returned to their home in Ontario Canada they discussed the move with their children, whom all agreed to go, and then proceeded to sell their 20 year business of training and selling sled dogs. Once the house and business were sold, they drove a pick-up truck towing a 20 something foot long trailer to Florida. From their they flew, while all their material possessions were shipped to Limon on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica. I can't remember just exactly how they ended up in Esterillos but when they arrived they had no contacts and it wasn't until they were in Esterillos that someone referred them to the Tico family of Moncho and Margarita, the family I know very well and love dearly, that they had a place to park their trailer and stay. Moncho's property is right on the beach. This is prime land in Esterillos and so Alain and Lucy had beach front property to live on - a dream come true for just about anyone. Alain and Lucy speak French and English. When the family arrived here, the 3 teenagers: Cal 16, Emily !5, and Alex 13 only spoke French. After having lived with a Tico family for over 7 months now, they all do very well with spanish.

Within a month of having arrived in CR, Alain bought a boat. His dream was to give fishing and dolphin tours to provide an income for his family. Alain had never owned a boat before, did not know the ocean and does not know how to swim.....but he had a dream and nothing was going to stop him. This is Alain.

I could go on and on and on about the trials, joys, mishaps and challenges of this family but that is not today's story.

I have written several times about Minior, the Tico fisherman, who is the oldest son of Moncho and Margarita and my dear friend. It is his son William, age 19, that Alain hired to be his capitan. When Alain first started going out on the sea in this boat I was constantly asked to join them for fishing, etc. Not that I was afraid, but I knew better and waited almost 4 months before ever getting on. Since then I have been out with them at least 8 times for local fishing, dolphin tours, etc. I always get to go for free since I am now a good friend of the family plus I take a lot of photos and have helped them with their advertising.

The passengers: Me, Chad, Erin, Erin's sister Chelsey and her boyfriend JP - all 4 from San Diego. I have written about Chad and Erin before. The are the young couple, ages 25 and 27, who drove a suburban here from San Diego last February. With many surf stops along the way, it took them 40 days to arrive in Esterillos. The first couple days here in Esterillos they were staying at Brett's cabinas in the middle of town. Within 15 minutes of my first meeting them, I referred them to my friends Fred and Brigitte who own the Presidential Palace and needed someone to stay at their house for the whole month of March. Both Fred and Bri were going to be coming and going most of that month and needed someone to be there full time even when they were home. Chad and Erin were perfect! Then the first of April they moved into a house they have rented just around the corner from where I live. With them, that also made the long trip here, is Rhino. He is a 3 year old golden lab and is the very coolest dog I have ever known except for my own D.O.G. back in California.

Since April, Chad and Erin have had a constant flow of visitors: Erin's brother and his girlfriend who became the fiance before they left here, Chad's parents who are my age - almost - so much fun, 2 of Erin's best friends from San Diego, and for the last 10 days Erin's sister Chelsey and JP. With each of these visitors I was very involved. I spent a considerable amount of time with all of these people that I know all of them very well and love them just as much. Just before Chad's parents arrived - about 3 weeks ago, Chad proposed to Erin while visiting Aernal Volcano the night before they picked up his parents in Liberia. The date has not yet been set, but I will for sure be in attendance at this wedding in San Diego when ever it will be. I look forward to seeing all their friends and family again at that time.

Now...finally, the trip. I had told Chad and Erin about Tortuga Island. I went there a year ago last May with my friends Doug and Melanie from Arroyo Grande. From Herradura, it takes about an hour by boat to get there. Esterillos is about 35 minutes down the coast from Herradura so of course we knew getting to the island would take longer.

We could have taken a boat out of Herradura and it would have been like all the other regular tours but we all decided to go with Alain since he had never been there before and wanted to go to see if he could make this a regular tour with his boat. We all wanted something different..........we certainly got it.

We decided to leave at 6:30am but it was almost 7 by the time we got it all together. 3 days prior to this trip we have been experiencing a red tide. I am not sure what causes it but the result is dead fish and other sea life on the beach, a fowl smell, the water is a muddy red color and it is bad to swim, surf, etc, in. It has affected miles of coastline north and south of us. We did not know if this would also be a problem at Tortuga since it is in the bay north of were we live. But......we were going anyway no matter what, even dispute the huge storm the night before and threatening thunderheads way out to sea. This is after all the rainy season.

At first glance from shore the swell was small. And even as we headed out the swell was still small. But the further we went, the higher it got. Still we forged on keeping an eye on the rain clouds to the south but also enjoying the dolphins and sea turtles once we cleared the red tide.

As I said, I have been to Tortuga Island before. I couldn't remember exactly where it was but I knew when we passed the huge inlet to the bay we were not taking the direct route. I assumed (first mistake) we were heading for the peninsula and would then go up from there. Then we passed Montezuma. Another place I have been. A very beautiful quaint remote village near the tip of the peninsula. At that moment I suddenly realized neither Alain or William had any idea where we were going. Straight ahead and right off the tip of the peninsula was a hugh rock. Actually is was an island but all rock - a very, very large rock. This is where they were headed. By now the swell was very, very high. The highest I have ever been in but still I could see land (when the boat was at the top of a wave, not when we were between) I was concerned but not yet afraid. Finally I said something. Chad was sitting up by Alain whom I could not see. I told Chad we were going the wrong direction and that Tortuga Island was in the bay which was now way behind us. There was a short discussion between Alain and William in spanish that I could not hear and probably would not have understood. Then Alain told Chad "Today, Pat is going to see a different Tortuga Island - see that island (the rock we were headed for) - doesn't it look like a turtle". I wish I could have seen the look on my face. All I could say was "WHAT". I then told Erin who was sitting next to me that these guys had no idea where we were going. I asked if there was a map on board - the answer was no. Almost immediately we all knew we were headed the wrong direction. About 2 minutes later Alain had William turn the boat around and head for the bay.

Going past the Nicoya Peninsula was breathtaking and once we actually got into the bay the swell got smaller. Then we had to find the island. Tortuga is not a single island that just sticks out on it is own. It is part of a group of islands that sort of blend in with the coast. I wasn't sure exactly where it was, just the general area. Now that we were in milder water it was just humorous that we were all looking for this island. I saw a boat and suggested we go and ask. As we headed that direction the area seemed more familiar and as we came around a point I recognized the beach uphead. We were all very excited to know we had reached it and I am positive Alain was very relieved. It had taken almost 3 hours to get here for a trip that should have been an hour and a half.

Tortuga is a large island but 95 percent is private. The beach is a beautiful, brilliant white, while the perfect 82-85 degree temperature water is turquoise. This is the kind of island you see in a Corona commercial. We unloaded the cooler and got set up. I immediately went to rent a kayak. The next several hours were spent playing in the water, kayaking, snorkeling, eating, etc, etc.

During this time, Alain discovered the motor would not start.

Many attempts were made and 2 other boats came to assist, but still it did not start.

This island is for day use only, there are no restaurants, no hotels, just one small tourist shop that sells sodas.

Once a day a large catamaran comes over from Puntaranes which is a large fishing/shipping port about and hour and a half north of where I live. The boat holds 50 passengers plus a rather large staff. It was this capitan that Alain talked to and paid them to tow the boat back to the mainland. About 4pm my friends and I boarded the party boat while Alain and William remained with the Mackarel being towed behind the Calypso. While the 5 of us drank and enjoyed the fresh fruit and other appetizers being passed by the waiters on board, poor Alain and William just sat in their boat.

The trip back took over and hour and a half. The sunset cruise passed several islands I had never seen before. The 5 of us sat with our feet in a small wading pool enjoying the trip, the music, the food, everything.

When we got to Punteranes it was almost dark. Alain had called his wife Lucy and had her meet us there with the truck and trailer. When Lucy left Esterillos to meet us at the dock, she started out with 4 tires on the trailer. When she arrived, there were only 3. Alain's boat was still in the water and he was looking for someone to pull it to a dock he could load it from. The 5 of us had about a one minute discussion about what to do and immediately decided to go with a taxi.

We arrived home about 8pm. The next day I spoke with Alain. He told me it was 11 by the time they got home. It had taken a long time to get the boat loaded, the spare tire he had did not fit and so the drive home was very, very slow.

For myself and my 5 friends the day had been a wonderful adventure. Alain learned a lot from this trip - most important - know where you are going before you head out.

We will always remember Tortuga and forever be grateful it was not Gulligan's.

I constantly say this - everyday here is an adventure.

May each of you see your life as an adventure. Live it to the fullest and find something to be grateful for every single day.