There are basically 2 places I surf. One is called Baby Reef which is just that - a small reef - that goes way out just down from the mermaid. The other surf location is named "Jail House". This is because of a tico house that is on the beach where we walk out to do a wave check. When I first came here it was surrounded by bars - looking like a jail - thus the name. I like Jail House because this is where I first learned to surf and when the tide starts heading out you can still paddle in onto sand within the first 2 hours of the outgoing tide. There is reef here also - but much further out.
Last Sunday - I was in front of Jail House -pretty far out when here comes a set. For me, it was large but not overwhelming. I decided to go for it. This was one of those rare moments where I am actually in the right spot, catch it and am then looking down the slope of what seems a huge mountain. It was in that perfect moment - I decided to bail. As it was starting to close out on me I tried this very awkward back up on the board maneuver that did not work. Next thing I knew I was being slammed - seriously slammed - so much so......I hit the reef. When I came up gasping, I believed I had really hurt myself. My hip was in intense pain!
Adam was right there and was asking me - What happened? I am giving him my stupid look and then tell him I hit the reef. He looks at where we are - and we were no where near the shore and just says "Really???" Because of the distance from the beach, it didn't seem possible - but it did happen!
One week & one day, my hip is still black and blue. Sleeping is still difficult but I can walk, nothing was broken. After all these years out there - still trying to learn how to surf, I have been very fortunate in that I have not been seriously hurt. In fact, there have only been 4 other incidents - a minor shoulder dislocation that my friend Gary fixed, a bruised rib, the top of my foot sliced open by a fin, and just this past March being slammed by a giant wave and twisting my neck. The current incident is the one I could have been really hurt had it been my head, knee - any other part of my body!
Despite all this I continue to go out striving for that one perfect wave :)
The hip photo was taken yesterday morning - sorry it is so graphic but it is what is. I am certain some of my friends have thought I was just whining - but no - this was a serious slam. The other is a recent photo with my nephew Randy from Florida.
Mother Ocean - She has brought me a joy I never knew existed until I came to Costa Rica. There is nothing like sitting on your board on a beautiful day when the sea is calm and looks like a mirror. When the pelicans fly by and swoop low - often within a few feet - each one looking you right in the eye. Or the turtles as big as a small truck tire that will pop up next to you just to check you out. Looking back at the beautiful tropical coastline as the scarlet macaws fly by squawking loudly. The occasional horse or horses running up the beach.....And then there are the friends. Those of us who live here full time and those who come and go - like Anna & Heyward this week. To be out there in their presence - as many are truly great surfers - is such a gift to me. It would be impossible for me to make a list of all the wonderful people I know and have meet in all these years - sitting on a surf board.
Mother Ocean - I have seen her looking quiet & serene. I have seen her look very angry. I have seen her take lives..... I have walked the beach when it is just she and I.... as she quietly listens. I have seen the bounty she provides the fishermen and their families, the joy she gives to visitors on the weekends. I have seen her test some of the best surfers and then give someone like me one the most wonderful days of my life. But one thing you cannot do - when you are in the water you must never turn your back on her, you must never underestimate her power, for when you do and you show disrespect - she will get you and thus........that is what I believe happened last week. For a long time I have been whining about how terrible I am at surfing. She gave me a perfect wave, the perfect timing and I pushed it away..... and in that moment -I pissed her off and she slammed me hard!
Today I feel as if I am starting all over again. With Anna & Heyward here for just a week - I will be going out this afternoon. I'v been in this place many times but for today I will give thanks and respect to the one who has given me so much...Mother Ocean.
Pura Vida
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