The sky was overcast, this was near the end of the day, the photos are crappy...but......they give you the idea. Along with Adam, Chad and Ozzie all of Esterillos' best was out. After the sun had gone down and I knew I would not be able to get anything at all, I shut down my camera. About 5 minutes later I see Danny on a wave that is sooooo huge - he is in the barrel - I am thinking he got slammed.....then, in the next moment, he comes flying out. The largest barrel I have ever seen here in Esterillos.
Danny is done and heading in. He wraps his leash around the board and starts walking up the beach. He looks at me and Erin and I know exactly what he is thinking....."Did they see that"????? and in that moment.... I flash him a huge smile and thumbs up. He knows we know and his face is totally lit up.
For all my friends and family who know I lived near an ocean for 30 years and never gave surfing a single thought - you have no idea what an impact this sport has taken in my life. I love being around people who are talking about their session today, yesterday, when ever...and that happens ever single day here! I love watching surf movies - Riding Giants is still my favorite and big wave riders always have my full attention. I look at surf magazines and can tell you who many of the top surfers are. I understand more about waves, wind conditions, currents, swells, rip tides and sets than I ever did before. I know I love my 8'.0 board, noseriding is magical to me, I know the difference between a shortboard and a longboard and like the sticker on Brett's door wonder....."Why can't we all get a longboard". I know a lot of surf brand names and bottom line - I love all board shorts :), I know the places people go to surf - have a name specific to that place, like Pipeline, Teahupoo, Waimea, Rincon, our own being Escuela, Jailhouse, Baby Reef, the "secret spot" . There is no such thing as "just a surfboard", there are literally thousands of different types and styles, each and everyone meant for specific performance. Surfing is a passion, like many things, but somehow or another, it is.........totally what the person on that wave makes of it. It is a love and respect for the ocean, it is "riding" something that is in constant motion, unpredictable, will rise up and slap you when you turn your back. Having a sea turtle pop up 6 feet away from you and look you straight in the eye is unforgettable, same with the pelicans as they fly low in front of you, each one checking you out. Just sitting in the water, 80 degrees F. here, is often a very spiritual thing.
Almost every single day, at some point, I make note of how thankful I am to just be here. Seriously, I am still amazed that I even live here. I never get bored, there is always some adventure in the day. Things happen here that would never happen in the states - hard to explain, you just gotta be here.
Life is short and and as far as I know.....we only have one. May each and everyone of you who reads this, make life a priority an live your life to the fullest.
Pura Vida!
No comments:
Post a Comment