Christmas Eve morning. I had promised my friends Robby and Gry I would make them a DVD before they returned home shortly after the holidays. I had lots of photos of Gry with her horse lessons, but very few of Robby surfing. On this morning we all went in search of waves. A swell had come in and Robby believed waves would be good just down the coast, near a river mouth. He was right - the swell had arrived but the waves were so huge, they were out of control.
The photos hardly do it justice. Robby is no wussy but after about 30 minutes, after a huge set rolled thru, he being the only person in the water, made the smart decision to come in. The conditions were very dangerous - no place for any surfer to be.
Regardless of all that - I had a great morning! Time with friends I enjoy hanging out with, a great cup of coffee we picked up on the way, sunshine on the beach. It's hard to beat that!!!
Pura Vida
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