Wipe Out!

Several days ago Brett invited me to go surfing in Este with him and Doug.  While we were there Legend and Joe show up.  It has been relatively calm and even tho I really don't like beach breaks I was happy to be invited to go somewhere else - even if it is just down the beach aways.  When we got there, sure enough - manageable - I was even excited to be going out somewhere different than my usual.

At first it seem just fine and then.....bigger waves started rolling in.  And then.....even bigger waves.  At one point I saw Brett flying across the face of a wave with spray over his head....seriously!  So there I am - once again - big waves for me and of course here comes a huge one.  I did what I often do - decide whether I go for it - or die :)  I chose to go.  Within seconds I found myself looking down the face of what seems a giant wave and it is rolling over me because I am too damn slow to get up and catch it.  She caught me big time and slammed me to the bottom!  Plus, that was just the beginning - she slammed me 2 more times!

All I could think was I needed to get out.  Once she let me go, it was easy to get in as the beach was not very far.  Over my shoulder I saw Brett coming out also and I knew....he was worried and checking on me.

I hate to admit this but as I sat on the beach I thought "You are getting way to f*%#* ing old to be doing this.........." and I truly hate that thought - but it is true.  If I had to rate this wipeout it would be in my top 3 and I have had some spectacular ones thru the few years I have been trying to learn how to surf.

On the other hand....I had a great time, I wasn't afraid, I was glad I went.  5 days later my neck is still jacked but recovering :)

Living the life in Costa Rica!!!!!

Pura Vida