Pushing it to the Edge, But Oh.....one feels so Alive.

Last Thursday the 2nd set of Texas Boys were arriving and a huge swell was predicted to arrive on Friday.  By Thursday afternoon most of the people I hang with had left town in search of big waves in Montezuma/Mal Pais - at the end of the Guanacaste Peninsula.  For 2 weeks prior the ocean was uncommonly flat.  The water was so clear when you sat way out you could still see the reef.  I actually love it when it is like this as I look at it as a great opportunity to put in some fun paddle time.  My friends Debbie and Bob are still very new at surfing and so there were a number of days the 3 of us would paddle out and enjoy just being.

Bob was on a roll and even tho we both knew Friday would be rocking and rolling - he wanted to go out.  About the only thing I really know about where I surf is how to get out in the "Girl's Expressway" which is actually named after me and my friend Erin from back in 2008.  The "expressway" is a channel that runs between 2 different groups of waves - "Baby Reef" and "Jailhouse".

I told Bob I would meet him at 3pm on the beach.  Sure enough it was firing!  The quiet calm ocean was no more.  This was huge and a bit out of control.  We got on the beach and I looked at Bob to see if he truly wanted to do this and he said Yes!  I led the way - Bob was right behind me and amazingly we got out without incident.  Big waves were rolling in - one right after the other but we continued to weave our way out - trying to get behind the waves before they broke because once you get caught in a big set that is pounding......you are f..*#*^%$#ed!!

Everytime we thought it might settle down, here came another set - seemingly bigger than the set before - we just kept paddling - over, over the mountains of water that now surrounded us. Finally......we reached the safe zone.....we stopped, sat up on the boards - we were out to sea!!!  Never have I ever been that far out on a board - boat yes - surfboard - no way.  The coast was off in the distance.

So there we sat - me feeling very uncomfortable, guilty for getting us in this situation - and then......she raised her head high out of no where.  It's truly a wonder when you are just sitting there and all of a sudden you are paddling for your life - and so it was - the train was heading right for us - we were going as fast as we could to get to the side.  Bob was about 10 feet in front of me and off to the side about 5.  I literally saw him go up the steep face, barely missing the the edge of the wave as it was just starting to break.  I think she may have slapped him as a reminder that she had let him get by :) This is the largest body of water I had ever gone over.  On one hand it was scary.......on the other - such a thrill!!!

While we caught our breathe,  we just sat - watching the massive water pass us and then build up before it headed to shore - totally amazed by the power of it all.  As I said, we were so far out I knew this was not a good situation but the thought of trying to get back in was just as terrifying.  Finally,  I told Bob we are going to weave our way back in - just as we had coming out - constantly watching behind us - staying in the channel.

The best part about this story is we managed to get in safely.  Bob took a wave in boogie board style as that is what he knows best.  I tried to catch a wave.....didn't.....but still made it in without incident.  We went out - we conquered - got back in one piece.  Afterwards I saw a couple friends on the beach.  I told them what happened.  They and some of the others were wondering who that was so far out on the horizon they couldn't tell.  Me and Bob - a day neither of us will ever, ever forget.

These photos were taken Sunday afternoon - sitting on the beach with Rick and Ginny.  The swell was still there just not as crazy!  Rick says this particular spot, which is basically in front of their condo, is his most favorite  place in all the world.  Bob and I did not go out.  We, with others, including all our dog friends just enjoyed the show.  Later,  Brett, who was now back with Mike and Joe, along with Anna and Hayward headed out for a sunset session.  Awesome waves, wonderful friends, good times.

Pura Vida!