San Juan Del Sur - Nicaragua.
I needed to leave Costa Rica for 3 days to renew my visa - a requirement every 90 days. Almost all my friends that I normally travel with had been out of the country for the holidays. Just a week before this trip I had an unexpected invite to hike and climb the highest mountain in Costa Rica - Cerro Chirripo - 12,337 feet. On a clear day one can see both the Pacific and Atlantic. I made this 3 day hike with my friend Kevin from California and his friend from Costa Rica - Felix and Felix' very cute 20 year old son Feleche. That adventure is another story in itself that will be told at another time, but in a nutshell, in my small group, I was the first to reach the top of this magnificent mountain. Being on the top was an experience I will never, never forget. However, having recently returned from San Juan - that all seems so long ago.
When I left here on Friday, Jan. 25th, the plan was to catch the 7:30am bus that comes into the village - ride it about 30 minutes to Herradura - catch a Taxi to Barranca and from there catch the non-stop Tica bus to Nicaragua that leaves from San Jose. It was a good plan but didn't quite work that way. The 7:30am bus did arrive on time - packed with people. I stood all the way to Herradura. When I got there the driver I expected was not there. About 10 minutes later another driver showed up and introduced himself to me as Roger - an e-pate from San Diego. He ordered breakfast and I began to worry if I was going to make my connection. He was not concerned and I assumed he would get me to my stop on time. On the 40 minute ride to the bus stop on the PanAmerican highway we discussed his former career in law enforcement and my former career with the courts. Then he made me a proposition. With my "connections" with the court system he suggested it would be easy for me to locate defendants who were on their way to a federal penitentiary who might be interested in "re-locating" before being locked up. He actually told me if I could get the names of potential "clients" he would take care of the rest and I would make a "sh...load" of money. I listened but all the while was watching the road and calculating how much longer to the stop. I could just see myself spending the rest of my life in a 3rd world prison for this one. I don't think so!
When we got to my destination it was just a small roadside bus stop. Roger told me we were on time and just to watch for the blue and white Tica bus - then he left. 15 minutes went by and by then I was concerned. Finally, I turned to the small group of about a dozen and asked the two women I was standing next to if the Tica bus to Nicaragua had come by. Of course, everyone there was spanish speaking only, but we understood each other in my very poor espanol. What they told me was the bus had already passed. In the short time I had been there, other more local buses had passed and so I decided to wait and see what else came by - after all - at this point I had no other options. Within about 10 minutes a bus to Liberia stopped. Liberia is on this main highway and is way up north. In fact it is about and hour and a half from the border. I got right on and took the seat right in front next to a middle aged black man. I love being in the front across from the driver. This way you can see everything. I said Hola and introduced myself. The man did the same and it turned out that he could speak English. He was from the Caribbean port town of Limon which has a terrible reputation for being very unsafe. Can't remember his name now but he was delightful. For the next several hours that included one short stop for restrooms/snacks he and I enjoyed each other's company. When we got to Liberia he told me I would have to take another bus to the border that had to be taken from a different terminal than the one this bus stopped at. He showed me the direction I need to walk to get to that terminal. Once there it took awhile to figure out just where and when I needed to be to catch that bus. I did manage and once again ended up on a bus that was so packed I was standing sandwiched between other people. The ride to the border was over an hour.
When you take the Tica bus, the bus has attendants that actually help with the border crossing as in customs, etc. I was now on my own but having done this before knew just where to go. I had no trouble getting out of CR and then made the 1/4 mile walk into Nicaragua. Here things got a bit more confusing but somehow it all worked out. If I had been on the Tica bus this also would have been a breeze and then I would have ridden the 30 miles into the next town - got off and caught a shuttle that leaves every hour to the small beach community of San Juan Del Sur. At the border there were no shuttles to San Juan and I didn't even see one to Rivas - the next town. Now what to do??? I had been approached many times asking if I needed a taxi - now I decided I needed one and that is always a hard thing for me traveling alone. Finally a cute young guy approached me and I said yes to the taxi. Next thing I know I am going cross country alone with a driver flying over a dirt road dodging cattle and huge potholes - crossing my fingers everything would be ok.
Of course it did all turn out and I arrived in San Juan in probably record time. I had no idea where I would be staying and told the driver to take me to the playa. About a block away from the beach I saw a small hotel that looked fairly new. Once he dropped me off I walked back and the hotel turned out to be perfect. I could have a very clean safe room for $20 per night with a fan or $30 per night with air-conditioning. I opted for the air-conditioning. After arrangements were make I went to my room, closed the door and thanked God I had made it!!
That evening I walked the short walk to the beach and had a perfect lobster dinner, in a perfect open beach restaurant, watching handsome young men playing soccer with a perfect sunset. I was alone and felt it.
The next morning I got up to fresh coffee - which I seldom drank before Costa Rica. Now..... I love it. After coffee and pastry I grabbed my camera and headed out. I walked for about an hour. Full sun shinning, light breeze off the ocean - simply beautiful.
San Juan Del Sur is a very small town nestled in a bay. The waves are very small - no surfing here. A number of boats in the bay - a few fancy ones but not many. There is development going on here as in most Pacific coast communities I have seen - however - it is not overwhelming. The town itself is very quaint and although they cater to tourists it has a very Nicaragua flavor to it. It is beautiful.
After about an hour I arrived at the Catholic Church which is in the center of the town with a small park in front. I could tell service was being held. There were a number of large doors on the side and everything was open. I decided to go in. The church was more than half full. I immediately knew we were into a full mass. I walked to the back and sat. Since I am not Catholic I do not know the meaning of all the service and in Spanish it was impossible to understand what was being said. But with my limit Catholic experience it was very much like what I had seen before - a lot of up and down, shaking of smoke, bells, changing of the Priest's headdress, lighting of candles, more up and down, lines of people taking communion. At one point a small group of people - men, women and children went to the back of the church and picked up a cross, baskets of food and other items and then proceeded to walk towards the front like a small parade.
Then more singing and up and down. I tried to be discreet taking photos. The best photo I got was of a young girl standing by a window near the back. She was looking out and as I focused to take a photo a breeze caught her dress and up it flew just a bit. The lighting was perfect. I captured her as her thoughts were somewhere else other than that church.
The rest of the day was spent wandering around the town and shopping. Even got in a small nap which I usually cannot do, but the day before had been a lot.
That evening I went back to the same restaurant on the beach. This time I had shrimp - big and delicious. As I was finishing a parade of buses, trucks, vans, cars, bicycles came thru town. People were shouting and waving banners. I was told that evening there was to be a rally for Mayor of San Juan. When I got back to my room I discovered that the rally was directly in front on the hotel just half a block away. The way the hotel balcony was facing, sitting in a chair one could look directly at the flat bed truck the speakers were talking from. For about an hour a number of people spoke - all in Spanish of course - I have no idea what was said but there was a lot of enthusiasm in the air. At 9pm the talking stopped and the music began.
Since last October when I finally realized Costa Rica is now my home I have often had this overwhelming feeling of being in love with the country, the people and its' music. Latino music touches my heart. It makes me happy and it makes me want to dance.
That afternoon while shopping I found a cute little shop with a very cute little woman who helped me find and buy two very cute little dresses. I had one of them on and off I went to dance.
The music was so loud I could feel the beat in my chest. Almost immediately this older man came and took my arm. Next thing I know I am part of a large group in the street lost to the music. After about 20 minutes I am soaked with sweat. Between a song I told the man gracias and went to leave. He followed. In fact he followed me all the way back to the hotel. On the balcony was two other couples I had met before going over to dance, plus one other man. My dance partner is now standing below us talking very fast in Spanish. Neither of the other 2 couples knew Spanish very well. The one man who did could not understand due to the music - but - still the man kept talking - non stop. This went on for about 10 minutes. Finally I told my little group that the only way he would leave was if I did and so off I went. He of course was right behind me all the way trying to take my arm. I simply told him no gracias. Fortunately, almost immediately a very tall good looking Canadian came up to me and asked if I did the salsa. I told he not very well and he yelled I was going to learn. For the next 15-20 minutes he did his best. It was not pretty but I had a great time. From the corner of my eye I could see my older suitor looking rejected. At a break, I again said mucho gracias and headed back to the hotel - this time - thank goodness - alone.
The same group was still sitting on the balcony. I could tell the women wanted to dance but their partners did not. I was glad I was not with someone like that. We sat talking for quite awhile and then the DJ started playing american rock and roll. I simply could not just sit there and off I went back to the street dance. I stood in a crowd but near the back for about 10 minutes wishing someone would come up to me. I could see a lot of men looking at me - who probably wanted to ask but didn't. And then, there he was - a older gentleman again but dressed well with a huge smile. He took my hand and the fun began. Within about a minute or two Michael Jackson's song Billie Jean was playing. The two of us seemed to take up alot of space and I became aware that we were in a circle - not amongst a crowd - but a circle around us. The men who were previous looking at me were now all smiling. I cannot begin to explain what happened next. The music was loud and I was all over the place. I simply could not believe here I was - alone in Nicaragua dancing at a political rally in the street to MJ. It was if everything melted together and I had a burst of pure joy. I could not have been happier than I was at that moment. The music continued with other songs and again a small break came. I stopped - still very aware I am in about a 10 foot circle. I took his hand, kissed it and said mucho gracias and went to leave. As I reached the edge of the circle I felt another hand on my arm. There stood one of the very good looking Nicaraguan young men who had been watching me. I was very overheated and soaking wet but could not say no. Back into the circle. I could tell he was showing off and I was delighted. Two more songs, another mucho gracias and then I left without looking back.
The same group still on the balcony. I came back dragging myself up the stairs, said buenos noches and off I went to my room. I don't remember my head hitting the pillow but I am sure I was smiling.
I slept in the next morning and got up to coffee and cookies. The previous day I had determined I would take a water taxi to another beach up the coast. I was told there was a hotel there and one could snorkel. I needed to be at the water taxi stand at 9:30am to catch the boat at 10. This was now Sunday. I arrived on time and expected there to be a line. However, there was just me and one other person. We were told there must be 6 persons for the taxi to leave. I went to sit on the beach wall behind the stand so I could be in the shade. There was a young man eating a crushed ice mixture that is very popular in CR. I am not sure what all is in it but it is delicious. He introduced himself in english and I did the same. He offered to share the ice mixture and I accepted. For the next half hour we talked about where I was from, why I was there, etc. etc. 10am came and I was told there were not enough people to go and so there would be no taxi that day. I was disappointed but continued to sit and talk with Adolfo. He told me he was 25 and had lived in San Juan his entire life. His father is a teacher and insisted he learn English.
Another 20 minutes went by and as I got up to leave I asked he water taxi attendant where I could rent a bicycle. He told me. Adolfo offered to show me and off we went walking the cobblestone streets of San Juan. When we got to the place to rent Adolfo told the attendant what I needed. I asked him if he wanted to go with me. Well........by now we were old friends and of course he said yes. Off we went. His english was very good and so it was easy to understand him. First of all he took me to the river. I did not know a river ran into this bay. He showed me where he lived as a child and showed me a very old boat that he and his friends fished in. He told me stories of what it was like living on the river. He obviously loves the river. Then we went back out to the bay and spent several hours walking the beach, reef and hills around the bay. He told me names of rock formations and took me to the cave of the Tiger. For awhile we sat at the top of a hill looking out over the bay. Here he told me he was a poet and recited a poem in Spanish. He told me the poem was about the wind and how she saw and felt everything.
It was now late afternoon when we got back into the main part of town. I offered to buy lunch for my charming guide. We went to a very nice restaurant - again on the beach. He had a whole cooked fish - me the shrimp again. We took the bikes back and then walked the beach for another hour. He asked me if I like to dance and then asked if he could take me out that evening. Well......what do you think?
By now it was almost 7 and so we agreed to meet under a lamppost at 8. I went to my room, showered - put on another dress. When I saw him coming down the road he looked like a business executive all dressed up in what had to be his best. He was gorgeous.
The place he took me was on the river. A place I would never have found or have gone to by myself. Very old - locals only. This was not the hip tourist disco on the beach. This was real life in old San Juan Del Sur. He introduced me to everyone. Everyone was very kind and gracious. We danced, we drank, we laughed.
We left about midnight and walked along the river. The moon was more than half-full lighting up the few clouds around it. Familiar constellations were smiling down on me. He kissed me - I kissed him back. It is true - Latino men are hot!!
The next morning he was right outside my hotel at 9am as agreed. Immediately we walked to get the bicycles. He had told me we were going to a special place - another beach up the coast about an hour away on the bike. We rode out of town on a dirt road. Flowers everywhere - open meadows with horses and cattle. Then we came to an old locked gate. With each bicycle held above his head he managed to get both bikes over the gate. Now we were on another dirt road that was much smaller and less travelled. When we arrived at a very small old house I was introduced to the owner - a man about 50, his mother, his wife and all his children. Adolfo has known this family all his life. One of his friends is the son of the owner. They of course are very happy to see him and offered us food. He tells them we want to go to the beach and so the wife makes us a package of fruit, some bread and water. From here the trail becomes very tricky. We have the bikes and for the first time in my life I feel like I am mountain biking. At times we had to walk but it was so much fun. The music of birds singing everywhere. When we arrived - a beautiful bay opened up. We were the only ones in sight. Until this point we had been in the forest since getting off the main road. Now we discovered it was very cloudy and looking like rain. We started walking the beach and then the rain came. He took my hand and off we went running down the beach to a cave. I could tell it was small but plenty of room for two - but did I really want to be in there??? I'm thinking bats, spiders, snakes? Now it is really raining and as we get to the cave I'm talking spiders........ He jumps in and immediately "things" are flying. At first I thought it was bats. But no, no bats......butterflies. Hundreds of butterflies are now flying around in this small area. I could not believe it!!!!! So here we were - I really had no idea just where we were but I did know I was now sitting just inside a small cave with a very young handsome man with butterflies flying all around me. He sat behind me kissing me on my neck. I was once told "Once in a while life just jumps up and kisses you in the mouth." I now know just what that means.
It did not rain long and he had already showed me where we were going. We had to go the other way back on the beach to the other side to see "El Toro". The huge rock formation in the bay that give the beach its' name. It was low tide but with the rain, everything was very slippery. It took awhile but finally we arrived. Here we stayed for about an hour. We ate our lunch prepared by his friend. Adolfo has lived his whole life in San Juan. He had many questions about the world. We talked about many things as he caressed my arm and touch my hair. So......here we were on a deserted beach.
Now.......If this were a romance novel I would give all the details. But this is not - this was a gift - so totally unexpected - that I will never, never forget and forever be thankful.
The rain kept teasing and then it began to pour. We were on our way back - working our way over the slippery reef when it hit. We managed to press ourselves flat under a overhang to avoid getting soaked. The downpour was short but pretty dramatic. We just laughed. After that was just a few sprinkles. We got back to the bikes and then the house. A short visit - photos taken of his friends and off we went back to town.
The fruit had been delicious but when we got back to town with the bikes, we were starving. This time I told him I want to go to a small soda - a restaurant owned by a friend instead of something fancy on the beach. Thus we did. A lunch of the typical food. Rice, beans, fish - delicious.
We then decided he would show me his house. On the bikes still, we headed up the hill into a very old neighborhood. All day long and especially going thru town, everyone waved or made comments to Adolfo. I could tell they were all in fun and of course had to do with me. Finally I asked him if we had passed anyone he did not know. Other than tourists - his answer was no. Of course he knew everyone - this is his home. The other dress I had bought the day before was what I had worn this day. A very simple turquoise sun dress and me on a bicycle. It was perfect.
His house was very old but very clean. His brother and sister were there. His father no longer lives in this house and his mother was not there. At moments I was painfully aware of our age difference and at that moment I was very glad neither of his parents were there. We played with his dog and then we left. We then road the bikes until dark.
The evening was spent knowing it was almost over. We had drinks while watching the sun go down. On the bay before we got back to the bicycles he found part of a white shell. It was broken but the edges were smooth. Amazingly it was in the shape of a heart. As we waited for the sun to disappear on the horizon he told me the shell was his heart and he was giving it to me. I know............what can I say - I have now lived the most mushy romance novel I could have dreamed of...... but how sweet it was.
We then walked the beach - again - then ice cream. We walked the river holding hands. We then went to another very old bar on the river. Again -introductions were made. There were drinks and toasts - lots of laughing. It was getting late and I had a taxi picking me up at 6am. Another walk along the river under the stars. It was here we decided to say good-bye at the taxi stand - the place we had meet just the day before. It was a little past 11-when we arrived there. Neither of us wanted to go or to say good-bye.
Finally - it was time. I kissed him and told him we would count to 3 and then turn away from each other and go our opposite directions - the thing was - we couldn't look back! We both agreed. I said OK...... and then "Uno". He said "wait". A few more minutes and then I looked into those beautiful brown eyes and told him I had to go. I said "uno".......we both said "dos".........he wanted to say something but did not. I said "tres" - immediately turned and walked away. I did not look back.
My taxi arrived on time the next morning. The trip back to Esterillos was very long. A pile up of buses, trucks, etc at the border for almost 4 hours. I got home after 8pm. Did I care??????? What do you think?
It is one thing to hear about, read about or even see on a romance movie. It is another to have lived a moment in ones' life that takes you totally by surprise and takes your breath away. Adolfo was less than 48 hours. I will remember him the rest of my life.
December and January - non stop action, quick overview to get everyone up to date:
End of November - Mike, 23, my very good friend from the first 3 months I was here - arrived for 3 weeks from Canada, his 23 year old former roommate Jules and Jules' girlfriend 19 year old Alysha arrived a day later. For a week and a half I hung with this group. Lots of surfing, parties in the evenings, road trip to Aernal Volcano over to the Pacific coast to Ocotal, beautiful beach - could see Nicaragua across the bay - wild 4 wheeling ride down the the "Monkey Trail" well named for the amazing howler monkeys. Into Tamarindo, very popular and over developed beach community, down the Nicoya Peninsula and back home. 2 days of good friends and great music. 2 days back in Esterillos, the four of us still traveling around to local sites, are at a local beach. While sitting 20 feet in front of our rental car, the car is broken into and Mike's bag stolen. Fortunately, there was a task force also at that beach that saw everything and as we sat watching the sun go down, the robbers were stopped while driving away with the goods. As we were getting up to leave an officer told us what happened in the less than 15 minutes we were sitting there. For the next 2 hours we stood by the side of the beach road, fighting off mosquitoes, etc while the arrest and investigation began. Then... all 4 of us had to go the police station in Jaco for more reports, etc. This all took another 2 hours. For me this was totally fascinating. I could go on and on about time spent in the local police station but just know it was quite the eye opener and very entertaining. After that another day trip with more days of surfing, local outings. Then....Alysha changed partners and hooked up with Mike. Because December is major high season here, and there are not very many places to stay in Esterillos, Jules ended up staying with me in my very small room in the beach house. For the first couple days I got thumbs up and lots of smiles when we told everyone Jules was staying with me even tho everyone did know the story. Needless to say this was a very unusual time.....Meanwhile, other people that I also knew from earlier in the year also returned to Esterillos. Rick and Rob, the Miami boys - two of my new favorites. More surfing, more parties, more long, long nights laughing myself silly.
My wonderful friend Eleanor has a beautiful home and 2 cabinas she rents out. This year the house went to 2 gay couples from Canada, one cabina to another gay couple and her very close gay friend Peter from London - whom I met last year - were all at her place for Christmas. Several days before Christmas I made the arrangements to take Peter and the two couples from Canada horseback riding in the mountains and on the beach. In the jungle, down by a creek, it started pouring rain. The air is hot and the rain warm - no problem. We all just laughed and loved the moment. The next day all of us plus Eleanor and another friend all went to one of my favorite places. A series of 3 waterfalls that create 3 pools big enough for swimming. Private property, must walk thru the jungle to get there. Paradise. Several of these men love to cook. Christmas day was spent eating, enjoying each other's company, lots of laugher. 2 days later, the night before the 2 couples left, I was invited to join them and Peter for dinner. I had made them a DVD of their holiday and they were taking me out. When we got to the local restaurant the electricity went out and candles were lit. As I was sitting eating my fresh fish dinner in the company of these men I had come to love in such a very short time, at that moment I could not have been happier.
New Year's Eve was spent at the Presidential Palace on the hill - my former home all last summer. Again - great food, great friends, dancing..... At midnight the stoke of midnight many of us stood on the balcony and watched fireworks on the beach. I stayed until the show was over and then headed down the hill to my place on the beach. I was aware there would be bonfires and wanted to be part of that also. Here were the Tico families I have come to love. Big contrast between the party on the hill and the festivities on the beach. I am so grateful for these amazing people whom I have come to love so much.
New Year's day I was moving again - this time from the beach house to my friends' Kate and Dave. They were in California for the holidays - due back on Jan. 8th. I was set to move into my new place on the 15th but needed a place until then. This stay at their house helped both me and them.
About a week before I was to move I got an e-mail from my friend Kevin in California. He and another friend were coming to Costa Rica to hike Mount Chirripo, which is the highest mountain in Costa Rica - the 2nd highest in the Central Americas. It is 12, 300 something feet high. Kevin's friend messed up his knee and Kevin was now asking me if I wanted to join him, his friend Felix from San Jose, CR and Felix' 20 year old son Feleche. Well.... what do you think. I now had 4 days notice to get ready for the hike. I dug out my brand new running shoes that I have never worn and made travel plans. On Monday the 14th I caught the bus here in the village and road it all the way to the airport in San Jose. There I was met by Kevin. Within hours, me, Kevin, Felix and Feleche were being driving by another friend the 3 hour drive to the base of the mountain. There we all stayed in a hotel before starting the hike the next morning at 5:30am. Because this is a "nutshell" this is the short version of how it went. First day: 14 Km - UP 11 hours to base camp with about a 30 minute lunch stop. Exhausting. Dinner was tuna fish sandwiches and dried figs. That night I slept in a room with 2 sets of bunk beds with my 3 hiking partners. Kevin and Felix snore so loud it was like trying to sleep at a train station - seriously. Up early the next morning to conquer the mountain. We planned to stay another night so there was no hurry except the excitement of reaching the top. Only 4 km - but took about 3 hours. The final ascent was breathtaking. This was not a race but I happened to be in the front. Kevin was taking his time, Felix and his son decided to just sit at the base and enjoy the scenery with a joint. I just wanted to be on top. From here I cannot begin to tell you the thrill of climbing up, up, up over rocks and boulders. One moment it would be perfectly clear and then a cloud would pass. I would stop and sit on a rock and while looking down could see the cloud as it moved up from the valley and over the rocks. It was all so alive I could touch it. As I came around a corner, I looked up and saw a very handsome young Tico man. I stopped and asked if that was the top. He said "yes". I said "really". He gave me this huge smile and said "yes". I then said "you look so good, can I take your photo?" He smiled and I did. As I came over the top, he was there along with his 5 other friends from the CR university. As I stood up they all clapped and cheering me. On top of the world with these 6 handsome men - could have been a dream - but it was not. About 10 minutes later came Kevin and another 30, Felix and Feleche. Lots of photos, signing of the book at the top. After the boys left, the four of us stayed for about an hour. On a very clear day, one can see both the Atlantic and the Pacific. This day was not that clear - clouds over the oceans but..... beyond spectacular where we stood. A moment I will never, never, never forget. Thank you sooooooo much Kevin!!
The next morning we planned to leave very early. Felix is nocturnal and was up and down all night. About 4:30 am as he was coming back in I asked what time it was - he told me and I moaned. But then he told me he was out looking at the Southern Cross and that the sky was lit up with stars. If I wanted to see, I had to get up out of me very warm bag into the very, very cold. Well..... what do you think? Felix and I then spent about 15 minutes star gazing. The Southern Cross - simple and so beautiful. I had last seen it in South Africa. Another magical moment.
The hike down took about 6 hours. It had rained at night and with about 7 km to go the trail got very muddy. Lots of slipping and sliding but we took our time and all made it down safely. The only thing that did not make it down was my bag with the sleeping bag, etc. All our supplies and equipment had been taken to base camp by horse - same thing with coming down only my stuff got left at base camp despite the fact all bags were weighed together and placed in the same spot. I was told it would come down the next day and they would put the bag on a bus to San Jose. It could be picked up on Monday. Yeah, right! This was Thursday evening. I knew if I did that, I would probably never see the bag again. So.....I said good bye to everyone as they returned to San Jose and I stayed another night at the base hotel. This actually turned out to be perfect. I had a hot shower - the first since leaving my home Monday am, and best of all a quite room to sleep in. The next morning the bag did arrive by horseback at 10am. At 11am a Taxi picked me up to drive me into the closest town - San Isidro. I was told there would be a bus from there to the coast at 1pm. Wrong... the bus left at 3:30. Fortunately, there were 2 young guys now into their 3rd day ever in CR waiting for the same bus. I suggested we get a taxi and for $10 each we were on our way. After arriving in Dominical, about 20 minutes later a bus came by headed up the coast where I needed to go. About 4 hours later I finally arrived at my bus stop on the highway outside of Esterillos. As I was crossing the street, a young Tico on a motorcycle asked if I wanted a ride. I told him the one bag was very heavy. He said no problem. So with my backpack and another travel bag I hopped on and immediately hit my leg on a very, very hot tail pipe. I actually heard the singe. That was now 2 weeks ago last Friday and it is just now looking good. I still can't believe how bad it was for less than a second contact. But..... it was.
The next day after my return, I moved into my new place. This is a place I now have long term. This is a place I now call home rather than a temporary place while trying to decide just what I wanted to do. I now know just what I want to do. I am living in Costa Rica with no plans for returning to the states. I sent some of you photos of my new home. The photos were a bit deceiving. It looks like a huge house but it 2 units. I have the bottom unit. It is rather small but has a separate bedroom. I am on a hill with the gardner and housekeeper living in a small house in front. Onyx is a great watch dog and takes care of all of us. I feel very safe. I am on the same hill I have lived most of the time I have been here. There is a great breeze and ocean view. A 5 minute walk down the hill takes me to the beach I love. I feel like I am home.
Last week I needed to do the 90 day thing. Most everyone I have formerly travelled with had already been out of CR during the holidays - so - I went to Nicaragua by myself. A beautiful beach town named San Juan Del Sur on the Pacific side Another adventure getting there in that the taxi got me to the bus stop after the bus I needed to catch had already passed. Again - long story short - I did make it, not the way I planned but another adventure never the less. When I crossed the border and got to San Juan by way of a cross country taxi drive, dodging cattle and potholes, I had the driver drop me off at the beach. I had seen a small hotel a block away on the way in. Turn out to be perfect. Clean, safe and very cheap. My next 3 days in San Juan turned out to be a wonderful surprise - a full Catholic mass on Saturday morning, dancing in the street that evening at the end of a political rally for mayor - the next 2 days spent with a young Nicaraguan man riding bicycles, seeing sights unknown to tourists. My 3 days in San Juan were magical. When I left early on Tuesday morning I knew I had been given a gift that will long be remembered.
Now that I have decided to truly live in Costa Rica I am now taking spanish lessons with my friend Eleanor - every other day at 9am. Last night I started salsa dancing lessons in Jaco Mon and Wed. evenings.
Well.........the nut shell has turned out to be a coconut.
Oh - one other thing. The mermaid on the reef was seriously damaged during the last rainy season. La Serena is 16 years old. I took it upon myself to collect money for the restoration. The original sculptor - who is now about 74 years old - lives in San Jose - came here to Esterillos and agreed to restore her. He only wanted money for the materials necessary to fix her. Collecting money from the local business has been an interesting challenge but the restoration is in progress. Just before Christmas, I spent 4 of the 5 afternoons on the reef with Mr. Cepedas. He only speaks spanish but with my limited speaking abilities we clearly understood each other. He made resin and fiberglass molds to repair the arms and hip. I am not sure how all this will turn out but he is on it and it makes me happy to know I had a lot to do with saving her.
Once again I have probably put many of you asleep. Sorry these updates always become longer than I intend.
I often think of all of you. I wish you well and hope you find a magical moment in every day.
Esterillos Oeste is a small fishing/surfing community. Surfers come and go but the Tico fisherman have been here for many years. My favorite, of course, is Minior. He is 43 years old and has lived in Esterillos his whole life. To me he is like the old man of the sea. He and all his family live at the north end of the village where I live. At the other end is where the majority of the fishermen live. There are about a dozen pongas on the beach every day. A ponga is a 24ft open boat with an outboard motor. These boats are in the water everyday and are very weathered as are most of the fishermen.
Sometimes the fishermen go out all day - other times it is all night. I still have no idea how this is determined but for a long time - especially when I lived at the big house on the top of the hill and could see the small boat lights on the ocean at night - I have wanted to experience being on the water with these amazing men whom many know me. From the first time I came here I have walked past them many times as they were either setting out in the evenings or arriving early in the morning. I have many photos as you can image. I recognize most of them and know the names of a few. Some speak a little English and my Spanish is getting better.
In February, Peter and his girlfriend Mary Ann arrived here in Esterillos from British Colombia. He owns and guides an outfitter, horse packing business in the Rocky mountains he has lived most of his life. He plays guitar and sings and a number of times has played at gatherings I have been present. A very nice, delightful man.
Several weeks ago I was on the beach when he was telling some other friends about his night just spent on the ocean with a local fisherman. I immediately told him that was something I have wanted to do. He told me that if I really wanted to go, he would be happy to do it again. To me this was the answer to my dilemma. I really wanted to go - but all night on the ocean with 2 Ticos - ummmmmm - No. I told him I wanted to go when the moon was full.
Well...... I did it!!! Last Thursday, after Peter had made the arrangements, he and I met Alberto - whom I did know from a previous day trip. Alberto is 22, charming and fortunately does speak a little english.
The evening was perfect and with a beautiful sunset and the help of about 8 other men got the boat launched off the beach. Shortly after we entered the water, several other boats with 2 to 4 Ticos in each boat joined up with us. For about 45 minutes there was sort of tail gate party. Sharing of food, lots of talk and laughter - all in spanish of course. Some where teasing me - I just smiled back. It was dark but the moon was up when we all headed in our separate way.
Sailing across the water under a full moon was breathtaking. The air was warm and even tho I was wet from the launching and getting past the break, I was very comfortable. I am not sure how long we travelled - could have been 30 minutes to an hour - I truly have no idea. I was so caught up in the moment.
When we stopped and set anchor we got ready to fish. Fishing with a Tico is not like sport fishing you see on television. There are no rods - only the reel. I put my freshly chopped fish bate on my own hooks (2) and dropped the line in the water. When I felt the weight hit bottom, I pulled up about about a foot and began jigging - bouncing the weight up and down to get the fish's attention. All 3 of us were jigging and talking for about an hour. No fish - but I didn't care - it was so awesome to just be there.
I am sure some of you are wondering about the practicalities of being on an open boat with 2 men - like how do you pee?? This was high on my concern list before I went out. But after a short discussion with my captain and the use of a small bucket I did just fine. Sorry if this is more information than some of you may want.
It is hard to say how the rest of the evening went. Much of the time the 3 of us just sat there in silence enjoying the sound of the waves on the side of the boat. When we first set anchor, Alberto turned on the very small light that sits at the top of a 4 foot high pole. Again, even this pole was very rustic, bent, electrical wire hanging loose, hooked up to a weathered battery - but it worked - most of the time.
As I was sitting there looking at the lights on the coast - far in the distance I had this terrible feeling sweep over me - I was nauseous. I have never been sea sick but in that instance had a moment of panic with the thought that I may get so sick I would want to go back but knew no matter what, I would not ask. I started breathing deep and actually stood up. This helped. Then a good size swell rolled past. Again, light headiness and fear. This went on for what seemed like forever - actually maybe 30 minutes. Then it hit and over the side IT went - my late lunch from Margarita's. I had eaten about 2pm that afternoon so that I would not need a lot at night. The problem was she did not have my usual and instead I had arroz con pollo which is like a fried rice with chicken. The rice was a bit greasy and I am certain that was the problem I was now dealing with. It wasn't pretty but I immediately felt better. After that - no more sea sickness.
It was after 9pm when we all decided to bunker down. I knew this was going to be another challenge but the one I was also looking forward to. There were only 3 places to sit on this boat. The bench around the motor when Alberto was. Peter was on the bench at the other end and I was in the middle. Amazingly even at this time of night the temperature was perfect. I still had my shorts and top on and was perfectly comfortable but knew it would get colder in the night. I had borrowed a sweat jacket with a hood from a french/canadian friend and Peter had told me to bring socks. I also had a good size beach towel and a poncho if it rained. Alberto spread out a tarp on my bench that looked like it came from WWI. My pillow was my life jacket. Yes it was hard, but on that rocking boat in the middle of the ocean with the full moon smiling down on me I slept and I slept.
I am guessing but I believe it was about 2 or 3 when I woke up. I crawled over Peter to get the bucket for the pee thing. Bad planning on my part.
After taking care of business, I just sat. Both men were sound asleep and it was me, the ocean and that moon.........It was magical........... another moment I will never, never forget. The temperature was cool, but not uncomfortable. I could not have asked for a more perfect night on the open ocean with these two wonderful men.
Just before the sun came up and about 15 minutes before the moon went down, all 3 of us woke up at the same time. The sky was still dark but the moon was a deep orange. Again, all 3 of us just sat there taking it all in.
As soon as the moon was gone, Alberto dropped a line in the water and immediately had a good size red snapper. Two more were caught within about 10 minutes. It took awhile to get reorganized and get the anchor up - then we headed back in. After a short distance, another Tico boat also headed in, came up next to ours. Friends from the previous night. They also had a few fish but said the moon was too bright for good fishing.
The morning was clear and bright. Saw a number of dolphin and one large turtle. The air warm and perfect.
As we got close to our beach I could see that the swell was large and was wondering how we would get in without getting drenched. I momentarily forget that even 22 year old Alberto has been on the ocean his whole life and landing was nothing new to him. I have been out with Minior and other fishermen during the day many times before. Going out and coming back in are my favorite part. Watching the swell and riding in between the waves is a skill acquired after many years of practice. Alberto brought us in without hardly a splash.
Once on shore, Peter and I unloaded our "stuff". Alberto gutted and cleaned the 3 red snapper that were caught and told us to come back at 9 am for breakfast.
At 9 sharp, Peter and Mary Ann picked me up and back we went. Alberto had the fish cooked whole and all 4 of us enjoyed a delicious breakfast at the bar/restaurant there on the beach.
After breakfast I was so proud of myself. I felt good like I had had a perfect night's sleep. By 3 pm I could hardly keep my eyes open and had an afternoon nap which is almost unheard of for me.
To be honest - it took me until after a nap the next day to feel like I had had enough sleep.
The most amazing things still continue to happen to me here in Costa Rica. This was just another one of those gifts she has given me for which I will always truly be thankful.
Surfing in Esterillos is all about the tide. There is a dramatic difference between high tide and low tide. The best surfing is 2 hours before high followed by the 2 hours after. The tide changes by about 50 minutes every day. Today it will be 1:35pm, tomorrow 2:20pm, so on and so on. The best surfing days are where you have an early morning high such as 6am and then 12 hours later another high at 6pm - double dippers.
Most of the people I meet in Esterillos are here for the surfing and as a result of a year and a half living here I have learned a lot. I remember times in my past standing on the pier in Pismo watching the surfers - at least I thought I was watching them. Now I realize I did see them, but I really didn't SEE them. Now when I watch someone surf I immediately notice if they are regular or goofy (depends on the leg you place your leash - the right is regular - which I am, on the left means goofy). I take note of the type of board, whether it is a longboard, shortboard, fish, whatever.
As of the 1st of May I have now lived in Costa Rica for 18 months - a year and a half. Compared to all I have seen, all I have done, the many people I have met I myself can hardly believe it has been this short amount of time.
When I meet new people who are visiting or passing thru, quite often I am asked what do I "DO" and do I get bored. I smile and tell then first of all I am never bored, trying to explain just what I "DO" is harder.
The thing that I "DO" is I meet people in a variety of ways. If I like them, within a very short period of time of having met them, I tell them about my love of photography and then offer to enhance their experience of being here by taking photos of them, add those photos to a huge library of photos I already have and then make a DVD which includes all those photos put to music. I do not charge anything to do this but the benefits and rewards I get in return are above and beyond explanation. Many of the people I have made DVD's for were here for less than a week, others longer. Some actually live here and upon those occasional returns to the states I have volunteered to do this so they could share where they now live with friends and families in the states. A few DVD's have been for my few friend who have actually taken me up on my constant invitations to come for a visit.
Yesterday morning as I was still in bed thinking it was way past time that I had last written, and thinking about all that has happened since the end of January, the last time I actually wrote. Then I started thinking about all the DVD's I have made and was wondering just how many had there been. At that moment I needed to know just how many there were. I fired up the computer and went zipping thru the current 5,000 photos I have in my photo library. This is not all the photos I have taken in the past year and a half, this is the 5,000 photos that have been selected, edited, cropped and saved out of thousands of photos - the ones that I simply cannot delete. I know this file very well and it really didn't take long to determine that since first landing in this amazing country with a computer I knew very little about, with practically no computer skills, I have made 51 - 51 different DVDs. I was absolutely shocked at the total.
So....who were these 51 people?? It all began with my friends Erin and MIke. Mike came to Costa Rica in October 2006. I had been here for a month. Instead of Erin, he brought his brother-in-law Jesse. They were here for about 5 days. They were staying in the cabina right next to mine when I lived with my friends Kurt and Kristy. In those 5 days I saw Jesse, who had never been to Costa Rica or hardly anywhere else for that matter, fall in love with Esterillos and just for that I wanted to give him something that he could take home and share with his family. The surprise and joy on his face when he saw what I had managed to pull together was all I needed and become the inspiration that has brought me to where I am - 51 DVD's later.
A few favorite subjects:
Randy my nephew from Florida - the first to come and visit me. November of that year was spent getting to know two men from England. Peter is gay and returned again this past Christmas. His friend John, whom he has known since grade school, came with him for his first time to Costa Rica. I had never met anyone from England that I actually got to know. Peter love for cooking and staying at Eleanor's house meant many an evening of dinner parties and vaudeville acts with song and dance provided by the two of them and forced participation by all who attended. I remain in regular e-mail contact with both of them.
Mike and Steve from Canada - also met in my first 3 months. 2 young surfers who came here for 5 weeks of surfing and on the 4th day here, Mike broke his ankle. About a week after that my friend Ray arrived from Santa Monica and with a rental car the 4 of us took a road trip and saw the 2 most visited tourist destinations in CR - Aernal Volcano and Manuel Antonio National Park. After those trips those 2 young men - ages 23 and 27 became very good friends of mine. Mike and I remained in contact until his return visit to Esterillos last December. He was the one who came with his friend Jules, Jules girlfriend Alysha, and then halfway thru their month long vacation here, Mike and Alysha hooked up. That was when the issue of the DVD became a problem because instead of doing one group DVD, I ended up doing 3 individual DVD's. December was a wild month. That was also the month I did a DVD for the 2 gay couples that in just a week and a half after spending time with them horseback riding and all of Christmas week, fell in love with all of them and of course wanted to give them this gift.
February last year, 2 young married couples, all in their late 20's. They adopted me and I them. Time spent with them at the waterfalls, beach and surf time. Thoralf and Apel - 2 young surfers from Germany staying here in Esterillos at a place called Cabina's Mary.
Side trip - Cabina's Mary is owned by Brett. Brett turned 40, 5 days after my birthday last year. He is from Houston Texas and lived near the high school I went to my freshman and sophomore year. Brett teaches surfing and is the one who gave me my first lesson. He rents out boards and makes repairs. Cabina Mary is sort of rustic but a surfer's dream. One large kitchen that is for communal. 4 bedrooms, one belonging to Brett - the others available for the affordable price of $8 per person/per night. As many as 6 can be in one room. The beer is always cold and quite often there is food on the grill. Brett and I have been friends from the first time we met and this is my favorite place to hang. A huge number of the DVD's I have made have gone to guests of Cabina's Mary.
So....back to Thoralf and Apel - guests at Cabina Mary. German, very handsome, in their early 30's. As I was looking at the CR map with Thoralf, he told me both he and Apel were leaving the next morning to go way south to Pavonnes - a famous surf spot known for being the longest left in the world. As I mentioned to him this was a place on my must see list, he immediately invited me to come with them. At first I was shocked that he would even consider this and then I realized he was absolutely serious. The best part was the offer was an offer out of the goodness of his heart - no intentions of anything - my God, I am over 20 years older and they still want me to go! Unfortunately I was committed to house sitting in the middle of that trip and had to say no but at that moment, Thoralf became very dear to my heart. When they arrived back in Esterillos 4 days later, I spent the time standing on the beach for several hours taking photos of him and Apel. DVD's were made for each of them and within a few days after their departure for home, I received heartfelt thank you e-mail from each of them. Since that time, both of them returned last November and then this last month Apel came for several weeks with his girlfriend. Of course they stayed at Brett's and of course I made a whole new DVD for them as a couple. Again, hours were spent with them on the beach, variety of surfing spots, evenings at Cabina's Mary telling stories - lots of laughter.
Mike and his 13 year old daughter from Utah, guests at Cabina's Mary. A surf trip to Boca Baranca - the 2nd longest left in the world. Photographing this young girl learning how to surf. Standing on the Tarcoles bridge with them counting crocodiles below us.
Chuck - Esterillos' local pot dealer, age 46, surfer since he was 7 years old, wavy long blond hair, great body - from Huntington Beach, CA. Knew everything about surfing and taught me a lot. After 3 years of living here returned to CA to return to a career with the merchant marines. I hear from him occasionally and never once does he send me an e-mail without thanking me for his DVD.
Adam from Seattle. My beautiful swedish friend Anna and I met Adam while staying in Montezuma at the tip of the Nicoya peninsula last June. He was here for 2 months of surfing. After surfing the same break for 5 days straight and seeing him everyday, we invited him to come visit us here in Esterillos. He took us up on the offer and ended up staying for 2 weeks. He was in charge of the fish b-b-q for my birthday party. Adam was 29, full of life and himself. So much fun to be with.
When Anna returned home to Vail, Colorado where she worked as a massage therapist, she wrote me and told me Blockbuster was having a hard time competing with the DVD I had made for her. I don't doubt it.
Rick and Rob from Miami. Both early 30's. They were staying at Kurt and Kristy's last December. I had met them a year ago in March when they were part of a group of 6 that I watched come flying out of the surf after Chuck yelled "Croc". They were here for only a week in December but in that very short time, I came to love both of them and once again spent hours on the beach taking surfing photos so they would each have something to share with friends and family back home. Rob and I still stay in touch.
Vince from California. He actually came to CR in February 2007 but did not arrive in Esterillos until last November. Vince was wild. Had a crazy sense of humor and could rap about anything, anyone right at that moment. He was 41 but claimed to be 14 - he was. He was passionate about motorcycles, skateboards, and surfing - all of which took your breath away to watch. He was not the most handsome man I have ever know, but charming - oh my gosh. When I offered to do him a DVD he asked if I would include photos he had taken with his camera since arriving here. Not exactly x-rated but at my count there were 22 beautiful women included with the many photos taken. His DVD was the longest one I have made so far - 15 minutes and with all those women that I included, if there was a Blockbuster here, they would have had a hard time competing with this one. There were several showings of that DVD before he left. When Vince left to return to CA before Christmas, his absence was felt by so many.
The Texas boys - by far my favorite. This is a group of friends that belong to Brett. Brett has known Andrew since 3rd grade and Mike since freshman in high school. Their lifelong bond sprang from surfing the gulf. When they come they, usually 4 other surfer friends, all from Texas also come. This group has known each other for many years and when they get together it is like being with a bunch of teenage boys. The first time I met them was at a super bowl party in 2007. The group was so big and so outgoing I was very intimidated. Within a day or two and several parties and surf sessions I came to know and love all of them. Most of them were here last July and then this past March, 7 of them arrived. At that time there was also another guy - Larry - staying at Brett's since November - here from Oregon for 6 months. The Texas boys were here for 10 days. The 2nd night they were at Brett's I stopped by to say hello, get caught up on things since the last visit, met the 2 new guys - both older brothers of Mike and Steve. And then just like the times before, there I am having dinner and playing Cadillac till late in the night. During that stay I spent one day with this group of 9 wild men fishing at of Quepos. Another day was spent taking photos as 3 of them helping Brett with a huge group surf lesson while the rest of this group sat and played on the beach. Another day was spend back in Quepos surfing. One morning I took the whole group - all 9 of them to breakfast at Margarita's. This was during the time when the pizotes were joining everyone for breakfast. It was hysterical watching all of them enjoying little Benji the male pizote who loved to get up on the table, get into the sugar, spill coffee and help you eat your eggs. After breakfast they all came up to my place and for a moment time stood still as I took a photo of this amazing group of men, whom all of them I love, so aware of how lucky I was to have them as my friends. Their DVD was very involved because I made sure I gave everyone equal time. I had good shots of everyone of them surfing and had the whole trip here covered. The morning they left, I delivered 9 DVD's with CDs that included photos that could be downloaded onto computers. The bond between this group is very strong. Brett has told me he has actually cried watching the DVD I made for all of them.
More than half of the DVD's I have made are related to surfing. It has become a passion - to get the perfect surf photo for whomever I am shooting for. Nothing makes me or them happier than when I catch that moment.
I have also made DVD's of some of my trips. The trip last year to Bocus Del Toro with Kate, Dave, Hans, Terri and John. I made a copy for everyone that made the story so much more fun to see and share. My first trip to Granada, Nicaragua with my friend Ann. Again - add music to photos and there is something fun to share with everyone. My romp in San Juan Del Sur in January. For making that trip unforgettable I made a DVD of San Juan and Adolpo - the very cute young Nica I spent 2 days practicing spanish and riding bicicletas with.
The DVD that I gave to my friend Cecilia for Christmas was a piece of work that took all year. Her mother is Margarita of Margarita's soda and her father is Moncho. Cecilia is 36 and was born in Esterillos. Her brother is Minior the fisherman I have spent a lot of time with checking lobster nets, fishing, etc. There are 5 brothers and 4 sisters in the family. There was another boy but when he was 4 years old he fell into a well on the property and drowned. Cecilia is the only one in this family that speaks english. Minior just a little and another sister learning. I love this family! On Christmas day as they enjoyed a traditional dinner together the DVD was shown. I was not there but was told many times after how much it was enjoyed and appreciated. No amount of money can be placed on this type of gift from them. I love them and they love me - it is just that simple.
Chad and Lisa from Connecticut with their 2 young boys and 2 older kids from a former marriage. They rented Kurt and Kristy's house for all of July. Fun times in the pool, dinner parties, road trips in the mountains to show them places off the beaten path. Sharing my secret spot where fossils can be found if you know where to look. Passing on my passion for sea glass to the older daughter.
These are just a few of the 51 I gave my time and attention to and in return received more than anyone can over know.
Whenever someone is leaving that I have just presented a DVD to, I am always sad to see them go. A connection has been made and for that short time they were here a new friendship was made. Many of these people have returned and some will never come back. Most I heard from upon their arrival home, some not a word since nor do I expect any. For them, the time here was what it was and for me it was a gift to be able to get to know them, enjoy the fun time we had and then say good-bye.
As I said - I always feel a little sad to say good-bye... but what I have finally learned is that tomorrow, maybe the next day or could be next week, there will be someone new. Someone else who will come into my life for a short period of time but in that time we have together, a bond will be created and each of us will forever be grateful for our crossed paths. Yesterday I met Noah - tomorrow morning I will be on the beach early snapping photos, hoping for that perfect surf shot.
When someone asks me what do I "DO" - I just smile. I tell them I enjoy getting to know people that are visiting and would be happy to show them or tell them anything they want to know about the area. By the time they do leave, they understand and know just what it is I "DO".
The tide comes in...the tide goes out.
May there be peace and harmony in your life. Breath in, breath out. Live each moment, it is all that we have. Be grateful for friends and loved ones. These are the things that in the end will matter most and the things you will forever be grateful for.
