Me, Brett, Kealy, Desirae, Aaron, Sean, Zack, Chris, Janna and Lisa were all on board hoping for an awesome day. We got just that and way more - a double over head plus day!
By 7:30 am we had all the boards in one boat with me and Brett, everyone else in the other. Our expectations were high. When we got there - we simply could not believe how big it was. At first no one said a word, then Kealy yelled for his board and it was on.
Kealy, Aaron, Sean and Chris were our pro surfers. One after another breathtaking waves. Brett and Janna stayed further in, Zack and I were right there in the thick of it - but did our best to just stay out of the way. Lisa and Desirae stayed on the boat enjoying the cold beer.
Thank God to Desirae for coming and taking the amazing photos. I took the ones at the beginning and end of the trip but it was she who sat in the rocking boat, watching and capturing as many great waves as she could. We are all so grateful for her diligence!!!
Since this is my blog I just want to say this - this was the single most exciting day of surfing I have been in the presence of. This may not be epic to some of you, but to me.....this absolutely was. At one point I made the decision to head in closer to shore just to catch a wave. I did manage to get up for a second and then the wave caught me. I got slammed! Tried one more time...slammed again. By that time I was so far in, the paddle back out was long. That was when I decided I would rather sit in the midst of huge waves and watch the action rather than surf smaller waves on the inside. I am so grateful for that decision. I can't tell you how thrilling and exciting it was to see a wall of water about 2 stories high coming straight at you, being terrified and then managing to get over the top just before the lip hit you.
Pura Vida at its' finest!
2 comments:
Pat! that does look like a truely epic day! so wish i could have been out there with ya'll. Perfection at it's finest! tell everyone i said hello.
~john lancaster
Awesome pictures!
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