Double Dipper Day

My "Magical mystery tour" is now almost becoming routine - but never the same.  I love the walk - I enjoy sharing a place with friends who have never seen it before and the joy it brings them.  Last Wednesday it was Desirae and Reid.  Des had two friends visiting from Texas who were planning on going with us - in fact they were the reason for the walk, but after the night before......didn't make the 7 am wake up call.  Reid is here from Park City, Utah with his friend Joe who owns a house here in EO.  Just before we headed out, Kristy showed up and joined us.  Her schedule was tight, she has done the reef before, she left us when we headed out for the point.  On the way, we all ran into Bri and Sheila walking the dogs.  Tibby had joined us early on the walk so she was our dog for the day.

The Punta Mala adventure always takes about 4 hours.  When we got back to EO, Des and I had a quick lunch and then got ready for the afternoon adventure.  This time the girls did show up on time and with Reid driving his rental car, me, Desirae, Jessica and Nicole went to the waterfall.

Just another simply wonderful day in Paradise.

Girls' Night Out

Sunday morning a number of the guys got up early and headed for Pavones - famous for being the longest left (wave) in the world.  Now that high season is behind us, Mondays are pretty quite - so - Desirae (with her man gone)  and I decided to have a girls night out.  Lisa was in and arranged for Ricardo to cover for her at the bar.  Aaron was one of the guys who had also left, so we went up the hill and invited JoAnna.  By the time Des and I got there we had decided on the Delfin Hotel in Bejuco - 15 minutes down the road.   This is a small beautiful hotel right on the beach, great pool and even a jacuzzi.  Desirae and Lisa had never been there before and when we invited JoAnna she told us that was the very first place she worked when she came to Costa Rica 8 years ago.

After a dip in the pool and drinks in the jacuzzi, Tony, the chef was ready and waiting.   He is from New York, has only been in Costa Rica for a few months.  As it turned out, we were the only group there for dinner and he was overjoyed when we told him to just cook us whatever he wanted.  With both Desirae and Lisa being vegetarian, the meal consisted of stir fried rice with vegetables, fish on the side.  We couldn't decide on dessert so Tony served up 4 different, unbelievable perfect dishes.

The photo is taken on the graceful staircase that brings to vision beautiful brides.  Each of us are holding one of the desserts Tony made for us - a coconut flan, carrot cake, and ice cream dish and another that at this moment I can't remember.  My favorite - the coconut flan.

A simply perfect evening out with the girls.

Pura Vida

Fall in Esterillos

Costa Rica does not have 4 seasons as in the states.  Basically it is either dry season or rainy season.  Right now we are in between and the result is something that actually looks like Fall.

To me - the almendros tree is the most important tree in Esterillos.  Almendros means almond but it is not anything like an almond tree in the states.  It is this tree the scarlet macaws come to Esterillos every day to feed on the nut of this tree.

It is also this tree that every year about this time,  the leaves turn bright red and fall.  Within a short period, new green leaves arrive and the cycle begins again.

For the past week I was aware of this cycle - kept thinking I needed to take a walk up the beach to take photos.  Today was that day.

Pura Vida

New Waterfall

Fortunately I stopped by Sean and Roni's yesterday morning for breakfast.  Larry was sitting at a table with Jordan from Daytona Beach and Lee.  He tells me he and Jordan are headed up to a waterfall that I have been to before but only saw from up above.  This property was recently purchased by another friend who actually lives right here in EO, cleared a way to get to the pool at the bottom and now....its' a very accessible, beautiful place to get wet.  I tell Larry that I knew Ray and Lisa wanted to go last week but didn't make it.  He goes in search of them, I go to find Desirae.  Within 30 minutes - me, Larry, Jordan, Desirae and Ray are on our way to adventure.......

The first stop was a bar by the river for a cold beer.  Here we got to watch cowboys working with a yearling.  The techniques they use here are not what I have seen in the states but my experience with the CR horses are they do what they are supposed to do, they are not babied.  For example, one summer long ago I spent a lot of money with a trainer working with a horse who was afraid to get into an open stock trailer.  Here the horses are expected to jump into the back of a pickup truck that has been parked up against a hill.   With only thin bars around the bed to keep them in place, they stand with their heads over the cab of the truck, wind blowing in their face..... and behave themselves.  It's pretty amazing.

The waterfall.  Considering we are just starting to slip into rainy season, I thought the waterfall might just be a trickle.......but no, it was pumping.  Immediately we start the climb to the top.  With about a one inch ledge in some places, it was pretty tricky.  Des was highly concerned about slipping so we opted for jumping half way. Ray and Jordan on the other hand went to the top.  All was well until Ray managed to do a partial dislocation on his shoulder.  This is nothing new to him but considering he is returning to LA in about 10 days for a recording session (Ray is our local rock star drummer- seriously!  He is a recorded artist with several bands) - this was NOT good.

From the waterfall it is about 40 minutes back home so to help our friend Ray, we stopped at the closest bar.  Immediately tequila was ordered for him and with the shot came 2 parrots.  Each of us took turns playing with the birds - they loved us!

By the time we got back to EO it was dark.  I have no idea where the time went.....but a good time was certainly had by all.

Pura Vida

My Three Sons

Since this blog started and is mostly about my life in Costa Rica, some of my readers don't know I have 3 sons.

Yesterday was Mother's Day in the states and I heard from all three.  Actually I was not aware of this until just this morning when I checked e-mail.  Yesterday I was on my way back from Nicaragua and had no idea it was Mother's Day in the states.  Costa Rica does celebrate Mother's day but in August.

Before my life here I had a great life in California.  I was married when I was 22, had my first son Chris at the age of 25.  Chris was born 3 months early.  Due to problems I was having, I was actually flown from the central coast of California, where I was living to San Francisco.  Two days later, with less than 30 minutes labor....Chris arrived weighing in at 1 pound, 13 ounces.  He was born in a special neonatal unit at Children's Hospital.  At that time - in October 1978 - only 1 of 3 special premature facilities in the state.  Chris was 2 ounces short of being 5 pounds when we brought him home, 3 months later, on his due date - Feb. 26th, 1979.

My second son Scott was born on June 30, 1980.  At that time I had a friend who was a midwife who convinced me natural childbirth was the only way to go.  After a very difficult delivery for which I have never forgiven my friend......Scott arrived weighing 9 pounds, 12 ounces.

After Scott, the decision was made to have a 3rd child in the hopes of having a daughter.  On April 1st, 1983 - April Fool's Day - Sean arrived weighing 8 pounds, 10 ounces and was seriously the easiest delivery in the history of childbirth.  The hopes of having a daughter were now gone but the reality of 3 beautiful sons was one of the happiest moments of my life.

At the time of Sean's birth we were living in a small track house in Arroyo Grande, CA - San Luis Obispo County - 5 minutes from the beach.  By the end of that year we had sold that house and purchased a small 3 bedroom, spanish style house on 2 1/2 acres, still in Arroyo Grande, but in the country.  For the next 20 years this would be the place we all called home.

Twenty years.......Family:  good times, difficult times, laugher and tears, family dinners, reunions, holidays, church, graduations, sport events, horses, chickens, rabbits, 1 goat, cats and dogs, fireworks, the trampoline, boy scouts, family friends, traditions, birthdays, vacations, camping, girlfriends, problems, solutions......the list is endless.  My three sons are all now young men ages 28, 30 and 32. I have no idea how this happened. The years flew by...............Family - the most important element in a person's life.

I have much to be grateful for.  I now live in a beautiful country I love, I am in pretty good health, for the most part... my life has had few disasters...but the thing I am most grateful for is my three sons.  They gave me the majority of the happiest times of my life.  They continue to give me love and understanding that only exists between a mother and a child.

Chris, Scott and Sean - This is for you.  Life with all of you has been a rollercoaster of joy and happiness, frustration, fear and sadness.  Would I change anything - yes, if I could, but life and history is what it is.  Above and beyond everything, I love each of you more than anything in life.  Thank you for all you have given me, for all you have taught me, for the patience you had with me and for still loving me.  I feel proud and fortunate to be your mother.  You have been the greatest gift of my life.

I love you - Mom

Granada

It seems like it was just a short time ago when I was in Bocas del Toro, Panama with Larry, Kealy, Desirae, Sharon and Jeff, but the past 90 days flew by and just last week it was time again to leave Costa Rica for the required exit of at least 3 days to renew my visa.

Unless I am going to the states, I am usually taking a trip with other people or a friend who also needs to leave.  This time around, no one was here that needed to go and so I went it alone.  

At first I considered the Pacific side of Panama, however, the getting there and back became more complicated than I wanted to deal with and so my plans were changed at the last minute to head north to Granada, Nicaragua, a beautiful city I have been to twice before.

For doing this by myself this turned out to be the easiest, least expensive trip ever.  Thursday morning I simply caught the 7:30 am bus that comes into Esterillos every morning headed for San Jose.  3 hours later I was there, had lunch and then caught the 12:30 pm bus to Granada.  Riding the Tica bus is like taking the Greyhound in the states.  It is convenient, always on time, gets you there.  This was the same bus I took on the 3 day trip with Desirae back in December to Guatemala.  Like the last time, this bus was also freezing cold but I was prepared.  The movies were again horrible - the one going up was the life story of Bruce Lee, dialogue in Japanese with spanish sub-titles - the return movie featured Bruce Willis, Sylvester Stallon and Arnold Schwarzenegger shooting up the world...... in Spanish with amazingly... spanish sub-titles.  Very loud, very obnoxious.  Gotta love Tica Bus.

Since I have been there before I returned to the hotel I have always stayed.  The same desk clerk was still there - Edgar.  I knew I was in good hands.  

From Wikipedia, here's Granada:  Granada is a city in western Nicaragua (1,040 km²), and the capital of the Granada Department. With an estimated population of 110,326 (2003), it is Nicaragua's fourth most populous city. Granada is historically one of Nicaragua's most important cities both economically and politically. It has a rich colonial heritage, seen in its architecture and layout.

Founded in 1524 by Francisco Hernández de Córdoba and one of the first European cities in mainland Americas. Unlike other cities who claim the same, the city of Granada was not only the settlement of the conquest, but also a city registered in official records of the Crown of Aragon and the Kingdom of Castile in Spain.

Granada is also known as La Gran Sultana, by its Moorish and Andalusian appearance, unlike its sister city of León and historical rival, which has Castilian trends, both of the Baroque time.  

From having been there before one of the things I most love to do is get a massage above the Euro Cafe that donates space to a local blind school.  Here blind adults have been trained to give massage as a way to raise needed funds for their support.  On Friday I had a partial massage before I headed out on a volcano excursion in the afternoon.  Saturday I went back, late morning and had a full massage.  This time had the same man as the day before and this turned out to be the most unique massage ever and one of the very best.

The trip to Masaya Volcano included a stop at the art and shopping district in the town of Masaya.  I have been to so many markets like this one that it all sort of looks the same however I did buy a plate for my new house.  After an hour of being on our own for shopping we headed up to the volcano.  Before we got there, our amazing guide took me and 2 other couples on this tour, thru a museum that was absolutely wonderful and explained so much of the area and colorful history of the volcano which included human sacrifices, being included as one of the "7 gates to hell", captured solders and officers - on both sides being dropped into the crater during the 80's.  Afterwards we went to the site of a huge smoldering crater, followed by a hike to the closest highest point for a spectacular sunset.  Upon our descent, we then rode in the van to another area - were given hard hats and flashlights and walked in the dark to a lava tube.

Lava tube - again - according to Wikipedia:  Lava tubes are natural conduits through which lava travels beneath the surface of a lava flow, expelled by avolcano during an eruption. They can be actively draining lava from a source, or can be extinct, meaning the lava flow has ceased and the rock has cooled and left a long, cave-like channel.

We were told in meters just how long this one was but I - who still has no understanding of just how long a meter is.....have no idea how long this tube was but it was quite a ways.  When we got to what appeared to be the end we, were told that in the 80's - during the revolution, once a child turned 12, he or she was forced to become part of the army.  Many families in the local towns surrounding this volcano hid their children in this lava tube.  The boulders at the end where actually piled there to make this look like the end of the tunnel incase the enemy was in search.  We were told children would live here for months at a time - in total darkness.  A series of taps on the rocks was the clue their parents were bringing food, etc.  While we were in this place, we turned off our flashlights for 5 minutes.  It seemed like forever.  No one spoke, all that could be heard was the bats and sounds of the tube.  Amazing!

Afterwards we went to the entrance of another cave.  Here we were told to turn off our lights and just sit still.  Within moments after the lights went off you could hear and feel the air flow from the many bats coming out of the cave.  Not once did any of us get touched.

Then, back in the van and back to the edge of the crater.  Here we were taken one at a time to stand on a platform slightly hanging over the edge and told to hold onto the cement post and look down.  By now it was pitch dark, the sky full of stars, the crater no longer visible but what you could see was the soft orange glow from the lava far below the surface.  Despite the sulfur dioxide..... this was breathtaking!

My last night there I had considered having dinner at one of the fancy hotels that looks out over the plaza.  Everything is so cheap there, even the finest dinner would cost about $15.00.  Afterwards I planned to take a horse drawn carriage ride thru the city and down to the lake.  So...Saturday, about 5ish, I put on the dress I had brought with me and headed out.  Once I got to the hotel, looked around, considered my options I felt uncomfortable at the idea of sitting there alone looking down on the locals sitting in the plaza with the beautiful horse drawn carriages in the street between the hotel and the town square.  I simply could not sit there above all these people who have so little and then flaunt it all by riding in a fancy carriage alone.  The plan was ditched.  I did however go to another area that is touristy, had a great meal at a sidewalk cafe.  Walked around the plaza again and then heard music.  For the next hour I sat listening to live rock music again in the area I had just eaten.  The whole weekend there had been celebrations and small parades in celebration of the youth of Granada.  Sat. morning there had been several youth races around the plaza before the final 5K marathon.

The trip back yesterday worked like clockwork.  Caught Tica Bus at 7am, the crossing at the border went fairly smooth, arrived at my stop at 2pm.  Needed to take a taxi to catch a local bus to Jaco and then on to Esterillos.  When I got off the Tica bus there was another girl there who also needed to take a taxi and so we shared the fare and eased my concern as this is the one thing I hate about traveling alone - getting in a taxi by myself.  Arrived in Puntarenas in time to catch the 2:30 pm Quepos bus.  About 2 hours later I got off at the entrance to Esterillos.  Walked 10 minutes down the dirt road to where I live and wha la....I was home.

For some who live here, the 90 day requirement is an inconvenience and can be costly if you have a family.  For me, it is an excuse to get out of town, seldom know where I am headed until it is here, always an adventure I will never forget.

Thank you Granada for the hospitality and experiences you shared with me this time around.

Pura Vida!