Chad and Erin - again. I love this couple. I have been horseback riding with them twice on a tour I love, plus one other time with Erin's sister and her boyfriend. Tortuga island, local surfing trips, surfing in Quepos, dinner parties. I see them almost every day!
DVD's made for my new short time friends: James from Lake Tahoe, Nevada; Bob from West Virginia; Noah from Florida. All these required hours upon hours spent on the beach, etc.
Dave's 50th birthday party: Dave and his wife Kate are two of my closest friends here. They are from San Jose CA and have lived here for 3 years now. June 26th was the big day. He wanted a live band. I had seen a great band in Jaco a few months ago. They play classic rock and so I recommended them to Dave. Without hearing them, he booked them. This was the social event of the year in Esterillos. It was held at the local Tico bar on the beach. Everyone plus a lot of their family was here from the states. Afterwards about 10 of us ended up skinny dipping in another friends pool till early in the morning. It was a great party.
Bocas Del Toro. In May, Kate and Dave needed to do the 90 day thing. I really didn't have to go but wanted to. So it was me, them, another couple Gary, Meg and their 11 year old son Brett plus Richard who's wife is currently in the states - 7 of us total. I was in Bocas a year ago last March. This is a group of islands on the Caribbean side and belongs to Panama. We did the island hopping thing, one was actually set up with a trampoline, swings, etc to play in the water, plus snorkeling - always fun. Dave, Richard and I road bicycles for several hours one afternoon while Kate shopped and the others went diving, Kate had her birthday there and by the end of that day, she, Meg and I were dancing on a bar which of course I had instigated. We all took a bus there and back so that was an adventure in itself as usual. When we got back home we learned that while we had been gone, most of the Pacific side of Costa Rica had been hit hard by a tropical storm that was the biggest in the last 50 years. There was major flooding in Parrita about 20 miles to the south. We had no idea as it was beautiful where we had been.
3 weeks ago the woman who lived above me - Colleen, moved back to San Francisco. She had a job offer that could not be refused. So.....I moved upstairs. I now have an even more beautiful view of the ocean, even more of a sea breeze, and more security. The ceiling is twice as high as downstairs so I feel like I have more room even tho the floor plan is the same. Two things that make me very happy - no more toad pee outside my door in the mornings and less chance of a snake upstairs altho that is not a for sure thing since the jungle is in the back yard and in the last month I have now seen 3 live snakes on the road I was walking. All after dark between 6pm and 7. It is very beautiful and every day I am very aware of just how lucky I am to be here.
Turrialba - This is a beautiful Tico city south, east of San Jose. It takes about 5 hours to get there from here by bus. A month ago Chad, Erin and I left Esterillos to meet Erin's sister and boyfriend at the airport. From there we took a 2 hour ride by taxi to my friend Marty's house in Turriabla. Marty moved there in January with his two young sons and his housekeeper Hazel. They are the ones I did the wild "Road to Granada" trip with last November. Marty is passionate about white water rafting and now owns half of a rafting company in Turrialba. This is the reason he moved there.
I have been on a number of rafting trips in my life - California, Montana and Colorado but never a one as beautiful and fun as this trip. In my boat there was the 5 of us, Marty and the guide. There was also another boat with our group. Before we started out that morning, all us passengers and the crew were in a bus that Marty recently purchased. It took about 45 minutes to get to the farm we had to pass thur to get down to the river. When we hit the dirt road, we stopped and 3 of the crew members got out of the bus and climbed up to the top to sit in the raft that was on top of the bus. The idea of riding in the raft on top of the bus was very exciting to me and so I asked Marty if I could go up top. Of course he said yes. I realize this sounds like a very simple non eventful thing to do but the beauty of the mountain we descended, the sounds of the jungle, the cute Ticos I was sharing this space with, was breathtaking. It took at least half an hour to reach the river. When I got down I told Marty that if the river was half as much fun as the ride down, it would be spectacular. Well...........it was.
When I returned home after this trip my upstairs friend, Colleen who was still here at the time, told me this trip has been rated by National Geographic as one of the top 10 most beautiful rafting trips in the world. I understand why. Waterfalls everywhere, rapids that take your breath away but not terrifying but that depends on who you ask - I loved it. Because we had a rather wild group, all of us were out of the boat at least once. At one point we stopped to hike a water fall not seen from the river, lunch was prepared and served by the guides at a half way point on land inhabited by local indians. 2 small pigs provided the entertainment. In the afternoon, we reached a place in the river where the water was deep and flowing slow thru a very deep gorge. We all got out of the boat and floated down the river. At the end was a bar with showers and cold beer for all who wanted one.
Noah - One of the guys I made a DVD for. He is 38 and from Florida. He was in Esterillos for about 3 months. He is about 6'4" and rides a longboard. When he is on a wave..... he walks. He is the most amazing surfer I have ever seen. Besides being very good looking with beautiful blonde hair, he was a joy to get to know and watch on the waves. He returned home the first of the week. I spent a lot of time just watching him in the water. He is the only surfer I have ever seen do the hang ten thing. About 3 weeks ago, 8 of us all went in "The burb" - Chad's suburban that now has zebra stripes, to Hermosa, the beach north of us known for big waves. On that perfect morning, Erin and Adam with there with telephoto lens, me with Noah's video camera, saw the biggest waves I have ever seen and Noah riding them like a pro. It was breathtaking. The week before he left there was a summer solstice surf contest in Hermosa. Noah won the overall for the day. It was the 2nd contest he has ever entered.
Spay/Neuter Day. The McKee foundation - the people who used to own the clinic I volunteered for last year held a spay day here in Esterillos about a month ago - in fact this was just before I went to Turrialba with the kids. There was going to be one vet from San Jose with an assistant. Instead two doctors came. I had volunteered to do whatever was needed. I ended up being the one and only assistant to the younger of the two doctors. We started at 9 am and finished about 4pm. We had about a 30 minute break in between. Between the two doctors, we did 57 dogs and cats for the day. It was amazing, exhausting, and absolutely wonderful. That night my friend Elizabeth, (from Holland, 30 years old) who helped organize the event, she and I along with Kate and Dave who were providing a place for the doctors to stay that night - all had dinner together. Afterwards, Elizabeth and I took the doctors to Jaco and danced till 1am. Such a long, long day but oh so fun.
Bull riding - My place is near the top of the hill and just below me is the stables and arena where bull riding is held occasionally. About 2 weeks ago one of these events was scheduled. This was the same week Erin's sister Chelsey and her boyfriend JP were here. You might be guessing where this is leading but I did NOT ride a bull. Instead I encouraged and cheered on Chad, JP and two other friends to run like crazy across the arena after the rider had fallen off and the bull was also running around the ring. It was a rather wild night as there are very few rules at such events in Costa Rica. Fortunately no one was hurt and we are still taking about the fun had.
Elizabeth - again she is my friend from Holland. She is also the one I cover for last year at the vet clinic while she returned home for 3 weeks and then remained until that clinic was sold. Elizabeth recently started working for a horse tour that I took last year for my birthday. This is a tour that takes you up to a waterfall and there you have a mud bath. Anyway, I have started going out to the stables with her and helping out also. Now Elizabeth has horse fever. She wants her own. So, last week we went to visit a woman we both know who owns a few horses and boards others. Tomorrow after a tour we are going to see another person and on Sunday, more horses. I love horse shopping, just gotta be careful I don't get the same bug.
My birthday - July 2nd. I had so much fun white water rafting last month with Marty that that is what I wanted to do again. So, this last Tuesday, Elizabeth, myself, plus another girlfriend Nedley who recently had a full page article in the gringo Costa Rica newspaper about her being the one and only ship mate at Los Suenos which is the premier marina in Costa Rica all went to Turriable in El's car. Elizabeth had never been rafting before. Nedley grew up in Oregon and was a guide for 8 years. She knows everything about rafting. Wednesday was the big day. Once again, as we entered the farm to go down the mountain I asked Marty if all 3 of us could get on top and of course we did. The day was just as much fun as before. When we reached the place where we could float down the river, it started to pour rain. But, no problem, the rain was warmer than the river. What was a problem was getting back into the boat. As soon as you tried, someone would push you back in. Even the guide was in several time. It was totally out of control but a lot of fun. That evening after dinner, totally exhausted but it was still my birthday - all the girls including Hazel went out dancing on the town. Got home after midnight. Every single moment of my birthday day had been enjoyed. Thank you Marty!!!!!
Usually at the end of an "update" e-mail I often feel a bit guilty about all the fun I write about. I realize most of you are still working, have families at home, have other lives that make it impossible for you to just run away as I did. Many of you do know I still have challenges, all of you know no one, no one goes thru life without painful events. My life before I came to CR was great. I have sons I love very much and I had a career I truly enjoyed. But something happened to me that made me reevaluate where I was and caused me to take a chance at something unknown. I will forever be grateful for that decision as it took me to this place I now love so much.
May each of you find the courage to pursue your dream no matter how crazy it may sound to you and others. Life is short. I truly believe, when we get to the end it will be the dreams you lived that you will be most grateful for. Family and friends are so important, but be true to yourself - that is the person you have to deal with everyday of your life. You can choose to dwell on all the bad things that happen or you can look at each day as a gift to be enjoyed. I have always loved that old cliche' "Today is the first day of the rest of your life".
May TODAY be the first day of the rest of you life.
My friend Elizabeth, 30 years old, very cute, from Holland. I write of her often since I spend a lot of time with her.
For the past 2 months she has been working for a horse tour business and about 3 weeks ago decided she wanted her own horse........so, we went shopping for the perfect horse for Elizabeth.
The search took exactly one week and took us from a field where I saw the sickest, saddest horse I have ever seen to the mountains above Heredia which is the home of the President of Costa Rica.
We, Elizabeth, Andrea - from England and the person who owns the horse tour business El works for and myself all started out together to see a horse owned by a tico friend of Andrea's. The horse was being washed when we arrived and was in the driveway of a business next to the highway. He was handsome, and calm. We all liked him right away and were excited to be checking out our first horse. Rides were taken and a discussion held. There were other horses to see.
That first afternoon we saw 3 more horses. Two were in a pasture in the middle of Jaco. Each were easily caught and saddled. Again, more rides and each of us were impressed with the horses we were seeing. The average price was $800. In the states most any horse that would sell for that amount had to be close to death or had something seriously wrong.
As we were leaving the field, we saw a truck coming with 3 horses in it. Andrea knew the driver and waved as the went by - indicating we wanted them to stop. Andrea asked if they had any horses for sale. Immediately, we were following the driver to the same field we had just been. He pulled the truck over and parked it slanted in a ditch so he could unload the horses. Next thing we knew, we were riding two of the three.
At the end of the first day our hopes were high with what we had seen.
The next day, Elizabeth had a tour and I waited the morning at the stables. When she returned the two of us went for a short ride on the tour horses. That afternoon we went to see another friend we both know who owns a horse not far from where we live - Julia. Julia is from Canada and has leased part of a farm to board her horse plus 4 others that she is training or just taking care of for other owners. We checked out her place, discussed horses and the possibility of boarding with her once El had a horse. I'v been riding with Julia before - huge advantage of her location: the beach is right there and the mountains just across the highway - either direction is beautiful.
Several days prior to all this Elizabeth had noticed a Jaco tour horse in a pasture that look very sick. She contacted the police and were told they could not do anything unless the horse was out on the highway. On El's 3rd day at the station to complain I was with her. On the 4th day I was with her also. That afternoon with Andrea with us, as we were driving past the field we could see the horse in an area that a road goes thru. We got out of the car, went thru the gate and walked across the property to see the horse. Up close this was the sickest most horrible animal scene I have ever been close to. Andrea was in tears, Elizabeth was angry, I was in shock. Within minutes we were contemplating how we could humanly kill this horse - He was that bad.
The rest of that afternoon was spent pursing the owner whom we were told would do nothing and there was nothing we could do without risking legal problems against us. Animals here are not valued the way they are in the states. Again - long sad story - the horse finally died two days later and was left in the field for the vultures to take care of.
Elizabeth has lived in Esterillos for 3 years. One of her closest friends is a tico family - Lorraina, Jorge, and their 10 year old son Mario. Jorge's sister is married to a man who is a horse trainer. They live in a beautiful area in the mountains above Heredia which is close to San Jose - the capital of Costa Rica. Jorge knew Elizabeth was looking at horses and arranged for all of us to go visit his sister and brother in law. So on a beautiful Sunday morning, the three of them, El and I drove the 2 1/2 hours to the ranch.
Luis and Jorge's sister have lived on this ranch for 30 years. They have a son and daughter both of whom are in their 20's and have graduated from the university with degrees in engineering - just as their father did many years ago. Both the son and daughter were at the ranch when we arrived.
Driving thru the mountains before we got to the ranch reminded me very much of Santa Barbara - the southern end where there are large ranch homes on large lots - all perfectly manicured. It just had that feel to it = money.
The ranch owned by Jorge is like none other in that is not the perfect looking ranch. It looks very old - and is. It is one of the oldest in the area. The road across the property is not paved but instead has huge rocks that you have to drive over. The buildings are very old and appear to be falling apart - but this is the charm of the whole place. The house they live in is also very old, small, but oh so quaint. When we arrived - we got the grand tour starting with the hill that overlooks the property. From there we went back to the house and then the stables. We saw sheep, pigs, cattle and beautiful horses. As we were getting the tour our horses were being saddled for a ride.
When we headed out, there was 7 of us: me, El, Jorge, Luis, one of the workers, Luis' son Luis (that made it easy to remember his name) and another man who was boarding his 4 horses with Luis so they could be trained. When I mounted my pure white mare, Luis told me not to let go of the reins. I thought he was telling me this incase I was a beginner rider - that was not the reason.
The second I picked up the reins she was ready to go. As we headed off the ranch and onto the paved road we had come up, I was having a hard time holding her back and trying to get her to walk. When we got out on the road, she and I immediately took the lead. I could hear Elizabeth and Luis behind me chatting away about his horses. I was trying to sit like I knew how to ride and keep my horse under control. We turned off the main road after a short distance but were still on pavement - however, the road was very narrow with a foot to two foot drop offs on each side. My horse wanted to run and actually did 2 small bucks with her hind feet. The first motorcycle I saw coming at us almost gave me a heart attack. I quickly envisioned my horse jumping off the road and falling into the ditch on either side and me with her. Amazingly the bike made no difference in her attitude. She was still all go, but not any more upset than she already was. At one point the other man who was riding with us came up next to me. I asked him if he knew this horse. He said he did. Luis just boarded her for another owner who seldom ever rode. He told me everytime he has seen her out, she is a handful. That at least made me feel better letting me know it wasn't just me.
More cars, and more bikes came at us - each one causing me to see my life pass in front of my eyes but I held on and stayed with her.
Finally we got to an area that was dirt. When we reached a trail leading up a hill that disappeared quite away up, we were told we could run - do whatever.
Oh, Elizabeth - Elizabeth has owned a horse in Holland since she was 15. From photos and long discussions about her horse I know Elizabeth comes from a family that has money. She owns a dutch warmblood that has been professionally trained and still does shows with her trainer - whom has had a career as an olympic equestrian trainer. As a result of all this - Elizabeth is a very good rider. The horse she was on was a very gentle, quite, beautiful white mare. I glared at her several times as I was trying to stay in my seat. She knew what I was dealing with and just smiled.
So here we were at a place my horse knew she could run. Luis' worker was the first to start the hill at a full gallop. I was behind him and just let her go hoping I could stay with her. Amazingly she did not break into a full on run but rather a very fast canter up the hill and as I got close to the top and pulled her back, she actually slowed down. By now, the worker was out of sight in the woods and I was alone at the top of the hill with my girl. Now I decided she was fun and headed back down the hill. The rest of the group was just walking. I came cantering up, turned on a dime and headed back up again. My girl didn't miss a beat and was happy to be let loose.
The ride lasted for about an hour and a half. My mare never did relax enough to just do a slow walk. There was zip in every step she took. When we got back to the ranch I was tired but had had a blast. I no longer was afraid of her - in fact, I loved her.
After all the horses were rinsed and put away, we had a wonderful lunch of traditional Costa Rican food in the house - all around a big table.
Because the trip had taken so long I thought we would be heading back soon - crossing the mountains at night is not advisable, but no - there was more fun to be had.
After lunch, all of us piled into a pickup truck. Elizabeth and I were in the bed of the truck while the wives and kids rode up front.
The ranch Luis took us to was breathtaking. Acres of land, perfect brilliant green fields, stables and a house that would rival any I have every seen in person or a book. When he took us to the stables that housed the stallions I had no idea the show we were about to see.
Luis is the trainer of all the horses on this property. For the next half hour he got each of the 4 stallions out - one at a time. For about 5 minutes each one would jump and rear as he led them to the end of a lunge line. Then he would start to slowly pull them back in and within just a few minutes, each horse would stop and but his head in Luis' hands. It was magical.
We were all here for at least an hour and a half. We saw the new foals in the barn and walked the grounds. We peaked in the windows of the magnificent house - no one was home. We imagined what it would be like to live there.
It was very late when we got back to Oeste that night - what a great day it had been.
The next day was Monday and Andrea had more appointments for us. We headed out for the first - a ranch about an hour away - on the other side of the Tarcoles - the crocodile river. Just before we passed the river, we saw another ranch with horses in the field. We had a very short quick discussion about stopping and then pulled in. A ranch hand was there and told us that yes indeed they had 2 horses for sale - each belonging to a different owner who boarded the horse there.
The first horse they brought in from the pasture looked like a quarterhorse. As soon as Elizabeth got on him we all fell in love. This was the most beautiful horse we had seen and as Andrea and I saw them together, we knew he was perfect - Elizabeth did also. We saw the other horse but at the moment I can't even remember what it looked like - all we could see was the quarterhorse.
It took us about 30 more minutes to get to the appointment but we were all excited about the horse we just saw by chance. Andrea knew the people we were going to see and we spent another hour or so riding and checking out 2 more horses. One horse was gaited - like my horse back in California. I had tried to describe what a ride like that feels like to Elizabeth as she had never ridden a gaited horse. As soon as he hit it, her face lit up - then she started to laugh. She was gliding around the arena. She rode for awhile as did Andrea and I, and even tho both horses were very nice - they were not what we had just seen.
Later that day we had one more horse to see. The horse was in Jaco and had been sold to a young woman who never owned a horse before. The gelding was sold to her as a purebred Arabian. I have more Arabian in me than this horse did. He was nice but he was a Tico horse. I actually like him a lot - he had spirit - was a good thing I was not looking to buy a horse.
The next day Elizabeth had to work and I had a day off. It had been non stop for days it seemed.
That day, Elizabeth knew she wanted the quarterhorse and had already talked with the owner. The ranch hand had told us the asking price for the 7 year old horse was $1500. El talked to the owner - offered $750 and it was accepted. Arrangements were made for a vet to come out and do a vet check which also included doing a blood test. Here horses can catch a disease from other horses that is called anemia. It is nothing like what we think of - low iron - but rather a fatal disease that nothing can cure once they get it.
The morning of the day we found our horse, Elizabeth had promised a friend in Esterillos to see his horse on Thursday. That friend turned out to be Adrian - the very, very cute Tico that I rode with once a week when I first came to Costa Rica. Where the horse was located was on Adrian's father's ranch in the mountains about an hour and a half from where we live. I couldn't believe we were to go with him to this ranch. I was so excited I could hardly sleep the night before.
My first 3 months in Costa Rica were amazing. When I returned to California for Christmas that year I found it hard to believe I had only been gone for 3 months. It seemed much longer and it had changed everything for me. As many of you may recall, my plan was to move to Colorado upon return from that trip. That plan was tossed when I return to Oeste at the end of January 2007. I have been here ever since except a short return to CA last October.
Anyway - Adrian. When I return in January of that year I quickly found out that Adrian was no longer at the stables. The owner had not been paying him for his work and he had quit. Then he and the local small store owner's daughter ran away. At that time Adrian was 25 - she was 16 - I think. Broke my heart :) The first time I saw him since my return was sometime in March of that year - then several times since. Then recently he and the girlfriend returned to Oeste to do construction work here. I see them at the store occasionally so I guess the family has forgiven him and worked things out.
So here we were - early Thursday morning, ready for another adventure. I had also invited my 25 year old friend Erin to go with us. When we went to get Adrian - here he came with the girlfriend. Of course, I was teased about this and I have to admit I was a bit disappointed - alright, a little bit more than just a bit. What can I say - he is very cute.
The drive took us thru Parrita to the south and then up into the mountains. I had never been on this dirt road before - it was spectacular. Elizabeth drives her Rav4 like it was a jeep - nothing stops her.
When we arrived at the ranch - we parked out on the main road and walked up a hill overlooking the land. So beautiful - so Costa Rica. We walked past cattle with calves and then down to the ranch house. This place was the complete opposite of where we had been in Heredia but this was by far my favorite. The house was small, the barn looked like it would fall down as did the fences around it. Almost immediately after we arrived a bunch of other people also arrived. It was a combination of adults and kids - not sure if it was a whole family or what. The girls and I decided word had gotten out that 3 gringas were on their way up from the city (Parrita) and everyone came out to get a look. It was absolutely delightful.
Adrian brought out a nice looking pinto that was the reason we had come but immediately we knew this was not better than the one we were waiting for the vet results. Adrian of course did not know this and we did not want to make him feel bad so we all watched as horses were being tacked up for a ride. As soon as we were ready to go - it started to rain - lots of rain. For about half an hour we enjoyed visiting with the family and the other people who had come to see us - kinda like at the zoo. They were all very kind and gave us coffee and cheese melted between a corn meal like a tortilla but not a tortilla - it was delicious. When the rain slowed down - we headed out.
When we hit the road, up behind us came riding Adrian's younger brother. It was like a movie. Here he is - very handsome, long sleeve blue shirt, jeans - riding a horse that is prancing all over the place. Erin, who is recently engaged and I could not believe our luck. Both he and Adrian only speak spanish and both of us are very limited - but still, it was perfect with my Adrian up ahead talking horses with Elizabeth and the girlfriend left back at the ranch. I hope all of you know I am not totally serious - but I am smiling.
We rode up into the hills and then we came to a place were we got off the horse. Here was an old mill that is still used to extract sugar from the sugar cane they grow. Oxen or cattle are hooked up at each end of a huge beam that goes around in a circle. This rotates 2 large cylinders that stalks of sugar cane are pushed thru. This crushes the stalk and pushes the sugar out. Then there was a huge container that looked like a wok sitting on a large wood burning stove. Here the sugar is heated until it melts. Several things are made from this including blocks of natural sugar. Totally fascinating.
As we headed back it started to rain again. The red mud at the barn was deep and like clay. Each of us rode our horse thru it hoping no one would trip. Once the horses were unsaddled, more coffee and more visiting.
On the way back, Adrian and the girlfriend fell asleep. Us girls discussed Erin's wedding plans. For a moment as I was looking out over one of the many scenic views I was so aware of just how lucky I was to be here with these wonderful people in a place that makes me so happy.
The test results came back negative and arrangements were made to bring our boy home. He arrived about 3ish on Saturday. Most horses here in Costa Rica do not travel in safe solid horse trailers as the spoiled American horses. In stead, most are in a truck that are open with high bars. To get the horses out, the truck has to back up to something that is higher than the bed of the truck or at least close so the horse can get out. When I walked down to El's house, the truck had just arrived and she was trying to decide where they could unload. We both decided it had to be on my hill. So as we walked down the road, the truck followed. Part way up the hill the truck backed up against the side of another hill and in doing so the back wheels went into the ditch. This turned out to be perfect for the horse to get out - but not the truck. I walked the horse back down the hill to Elizabeth's house while she went to find a friend with a tractor. About 45 minutes later here she came. Meanwhile I had been introducing the horse to her 4 dogs and the property. His name is Milenio which is spanish for millennium as in the year 2000 of which he was born. He was amazing - not one bit upset, very curious and a pleasure to deal with.
Elizabeth's plan was to keep him at her house for a few weeks until we could move him to our friend Julia's. Julia is in Canada for 3 weeks. All that afternoon Elizabeth had 2 workers tearing down a concrete swimming pool that was next to her house and actually part of the porch area. This was a major project and 3/4 completed when I showed up with Milenio. Even with all that noise he did not care.
So now Elizabeth has her horse - in a newly constructed stall - on her porch. If this were the states - this would never have happened. The whole neighborhood would be in an uproar. Here - no big deal. I love living here.
As of this week I have now been in Costa Rica for FOUR YEARS. Even I can hardly believe it.
If you were to ask me what is the most dramatic month of the year in Costa Rica I would have to say September. This past week has been a perfect example of that fact and the life I have now lived for four fantastic years.
Before I went to Peru at the end of July, I moved into a house I actually own on the other side of the village. The distance from where I used to live for the past 4 years to the center of all activity here in Esterillos - being one of the two bars on the beach.....is about the same distance I now live only in the opposite direction. Even tho I have now been in this house for over a month it is still a shock to actually wake up here in the mornings - but that is not today's topic.
September is typically one of the two most rainy months of the year. October is usually the whopper. Just because it is the rainy season does not mean it rains all day every day - in fact, it usually rains almost every night and then the days are pretty nice - temperatures are cooler, often there is sunshine for a good part of the day. But the nights and the storms can be over the top dramatic. Lightening and thunder so loud it seriously shakes the center of your being. I so love it when that happens.
Just this past week so many different things have happened.... but not really. Every day is different and still an adventure but for some reason or another this week has been a bit over the top.
Where I live now is in a gated community. There is construction going all round me on all sides. In stead of walking like I used to do I now ride my bike. Well not exactly my bike - right now it is Kate's bike. My bike had to go to the shop. The gear shifters are rusted and no longer move, the back brake cable broke a few weeks ago, the basket is so rusted I had to tie a plastic bag onto the bars so I could still carry items without them falling out the bottom. Kate's bike actually has the same basket problem but my nifty duct tape took care of that. Because there is so much construction - with about 30 guys around me all day long on all sides - I ride my bike so that I can make a quick escape, throw out a few Buenos dias in the mornings and I am off - seldom returning until after 5 when they all go home.
By 6 it is dark here. The roads to my house are all dirt until I get into my development. With all the rain, the roads currently look like swiss cheese with all the pot holes. Last Tuesday it was pouring rain early. Several of us where watching baseball at Soda Mary's - Brett's place where most of us hang, visiting surfers rent cabinas, the local gathering place other than the bars. I was trying my best to wait out the rain but by 9pm - after my bedtime - I needed to just go. It was still pouring. Brett offered to give me a ride home but that would mean no bike in the morning so I decided I was just going to go for it. I did however borrow an umbrella. Unfortunately this is a typical Soda Mary umbrella - at least 2 spokes broken with one of the sides hanging down like a floppy ear. With my backpack on and umbrella in hand I started out in the downpour. My house is less than a mile - maybe only 3/4 of a mile. By the time I hit the corner and turned onto the long dirt road I realized the potential for disaster. Besides the wind lifting the umbrella up, one spoke was hanging down in my face. Driving with only one hand and trying to dodge all the potholes was a challenge. Out over the ocean I could now see the lightening and considered the fact I was now carrying a lightening rod. I knew if I fell from hitting a deep hole I might just end up with a spoke thru my eye. I was seriously concentrating with every turn of the wheels. Got down the longest street.....just one more turn coming up.......the darkest area since the trees cover the road and the lights are set far apart. As I turn, the rain is coming down so hard I can no longer see the mud holes and being right next to the estuary I am thinking crocodiles......that one little word that still comes up quite often here and strikes terror in my heart. I have seen a crocodile in a road before and considering my location this is certainly a possibility. I just keep on going and within seconds I can now see again. I made it home - everything was soaked including me...... but I made it.
Most nights since have been in the rain altho not as crazy.
Last week one of my most favorite "Texas Boys" - Andrew, aka Pelon......arrived and surprised all of us. Only Adam who picked him up at the airport knew he was coming. With him here we wanted to take him to a favorite "secret" spot that used to take 45 minutes to walk to after an hour's drive - but now - no hike, we rent a boat from a local fisherman and wha - la.....there we are. So Friday morning - 4:30 am we hit the road: Me, Brett, Adam, Kealy, Pelon and Rick. When we arrived at the point break we were the only ones there and she was firing! Within a matter of minutes we were all in the water charging towards huge waves. There have been times when I have been out in Esterillos and thought I was in big waves only to be told they were waist high. So.... what is huge to me may not be huge to most of these guys, but the waves that day were over head and that was Big for all of us.
So there I was with the big boys - all of these guys surfing most of their lives - me off and on for about 3 years and I am still not good - not to mention the fact I am way older than all but one. Rick is from Florida - is 58 and has been surfing forever...........
For awhile I just sat way on the outside - trying to stay out of the way. Seriously, I cannot remember if I caught a wave before or what I did until the big one hit but as I was just sitting there I could see I was now in the zone where I either had to go or I was really going to get slammed. I turned around and for a second saw most of the guys way in front of me. My biggest fear is hitting someone but in that second I knew they were so far away that was not a problem. I started to paddle and immediately the wave was there and in a split second I was looking way.....way down.....a thick wall of smooth water. In another split second I was up, I was on it, I was flying down the face of this mountain. The next thing I remember is hearing Adam yell "wrong way darlin". This wave is a left point break. I am a regular foot meaning I wear my leash on my right foot and my left is out in front on my board. Going right is natural for me - left is impossible. Even after all this time I have a hard time going left - once in awhile I pull it off but a wave like this - so big - extremely fast - no way. As a result the wave caught up with me and bucked me off like a crazed bronco. I was pushed down - way down....... but in seconds I had my head above water gasping. I knew I had just ridden the biggest wave of my life and oh.....my..........God.......... what a thrill !!!!!!!!!!
After that I paddled right back out to the zone. About 10 minutes later here came another set. Once again I was the one farthest out and I went for it. This did not go so well. In fact, now I really can't remember as that wave and at least the next 6 or 7 over the next hour or so got lost in all the dramatic spills I performed. I got slammed, jammed, tossed in every direction possible. One time I was up and then kept on going - walked right off the nose - the board flipped over me and I was held down again. To be honest, it's now all a blur. Total time in the water was about 3 hours. Time flies when your having fun.
On the way home we all stopped at a typical tico restaurant and had typical tico food - good food, constant talk about the great waves we had just had.
As soon as we got back to Esterillos Rich dropped Brett and I off at the Soda. It took me a few minutes to get my things together and as I walked into the Soda - there was a local tico Tigre. Tigre is about 30 years old. I think he has lived most of his life in Esterillos. He is currently known as a big time drug user and thief and there he was - standing there talking with Brett. I could go on about the facts that lead to this next statement but in short - he was there trying to break into the kitchen and rob Brett. We had caught him red handed but without any goods on him - just the damage that was made in his busted attempt. He is standing there holding his hands out, speaking in Spanish, "I didn't do anything". I'm standing there just looking at him. I have know Tigre for a long time. I know his history very well as he used to live with my girlfriend Elizabeth that I used to work at the vet clinic with. After a couple years living with him she kicked him out and after he vandalized her car, constant harassment, she filled a complaint against him and he went to prison for 2 months. There have been a number of robberies before and since where his name has come up.......I have absolutely no doubt he was there trying to rob Brett. Brett immediately went to the police to file a complaint but they were not there - nor were they there the next day. I have no idea now what he has done as bigger issues hit on Sunday.
I cannot remember what I did on Saturday. I do know I was worn out - in fact I felt like I had been beaten.......wonder why. But by the next day........I was back in the saddle again - literally! The guy I had ridden with in the Mardi Gras back in Feb. brought my same horse to Esterillos so I could ride him. I had seen Himee earlier that week and he had asked me when I wanted to ride again. I told him Sunday if possible and he came thru. About 3 in the after noon I was waiting at El Vago - one of the 2 beaches on the bar - hoping, hoping, hoping he would show up. In the meantime I was talking with a friend who had a young couple from Florida with him. If possible she wanted to go riding with me. When Himee showed up he was on my horse along with 3 other horses each carrying 2 young persons each. Himee might be 25.......I'm not sure. When I asked if my new young girlfriend could go - no problem - down the beach we headed. I was on Toro and Jessica was riding the same horse I had ridden with Himee in last year's Mardi Gras. Both horses amazing with lots of get up and go. Off we went cantering down the beach on the edge of the waves - a beautiful Sunday afternoon - people on the beach but not crowded. We ended up going to the estuary and the river that separates Esterillos Oeste from Esterillos Centro. There are crocodiles in this area and I didn't want to cross the river which was pretty high. As we got closer to Esterillos where the local fisherman launch I could see a lot of people on the beach. As we got much closer I could see an ambulance with flashing lights and people looking out to the sea. I immediately knew........someone had drowned. Sure enough - a 17 year old Tico boy.
Unfortunately drownings are a common occurrence. In the 4 years I have been here I seen another young teenage boy's body washed up on the beach the day after he drowned, then last year - about this same time - knew the older father and his 47 year old son who both drowned. The year before, watched a group of family and friends sit at the beach bus stop - on my bench - looking out to the ocean for a solid week hoping their son would be returned by the sea. He never was.....Before I went to Peru it was a young girl in Centro. I don't know how many times I have sat on my bench and watched the planes fly by and the boats go up and down the coast.
And then today. Today was a rare dreary rainy day. In the afternoon I was up visiting my friend Eleanor when the biggest storm of the month hit. Lightening, thunder, pouring rain - like we get at night only in the middle of the afternoon. While I was there one of her Tico workers came up to get some money for another project. While he was there he told us about her gardner Max and how he had stabbed another tico on Saturday at the soccer game. I ride past the soccer field everyday as it is right next to where I live. Apparently the other guy - also named Tigre - but a different one - was making racial remarks about Max as he is from Nicaragua. Max is awesome and all who know him - love him. He is a hard worker, respectful, nice guy. Well.......whatever the other guy said really pissed him off because Max stabbed him in the back on the field. Fortunately it went mostly in his side but made a deep gash. The tico was rushed to the clinic in Parrita and Max was arrested. He was let go after about 2 hours. Talk is Max needs to go - like leave the country as he is here illegally and no way does anyone want to be in a Costa Rican prison. He lives with Tica we all love.........a very bad situation.
Life in Costa Rica and especially this little village named Esterillos Oeste is life at its' best. Four years is a long time - it seems like forever and yet every single day there is something new. Always amazing! One of the days this week I was riding my bike along the beach trail as there are new water lines being put down along the dirt road and most of the time I am squeezing past a still working - moving backhoe. That's another thing I have been dealing with all week besides the fact the water is shut off at 7am sharp and remains off until 5 pm. Anyway - riding along the beach trail. This is also near the huge tree the scarlet macaws hang. It was just starting to rain again and I needed to go home for something so I was in a hurry. As I got past the few houses that are close to the tree - no one else around - I was flying down the trail. All of a sudden the tree exploded - seriously exploded with about 20 macaws taking flight. I slammed on the breaks and stood in amazement. This sight is something I never get tired of. They all flew a huge circle - squawking as only 20 macaws can do, then returned to the tree. Breathtaking......and off I went.
Tonight is Tuesday - this all began last Tuesday - one week - the week of my 4th anniversary. One more amazing week I have been fortunate to have lived and experience beautiful Costa Rica.
