Today I surfed a LEFT for the first time ever! I wasn't trying to go left, I was just happy I was up and before I knew it the wave turned and so did I. I was in a place that is far from my comfort zone - in front of the LowTide. Several friends were out with me. At first I didn't realize just what had happened. Then the comments came....it was good, really good. I then realized just how big this was to me. Something I doubted I could do. Something I was afraid I would never be able to do. A gift from the sea. 12 hours later and I am still stoked!
